Mazatlan to San Diego - Bashing North

Location:  San Diego, CA

We finally got out of the boatyard in Mazatlan at the end of February and then spent a few days at Marina Mazatlan, waiting for a weather window to cross over to San Jose del Cabo.

And we're off... Leaving the boatyard launch area and moving to Marina Mazatlan.  

Thursday, Febrauary 24, 2022 - Boatyard to Marina Mazatlan:  Our launch today was scheduled at 11:00 but they had one boat to launch before us and we went into the water about 12:30.  Our space at Marina Mazatlan was right next to the launch and it was only a 10 minute cruise before we were backing into our slip.

The Grupo Naval Mar de Cortez crew who worked on the boat:  Angel, Raul, B, Dave, Lanier, Fernando, Jose, David, Sergio

B, Ignacio (the crane operator), and Dave. 
Seabiscuit is in the slings behind us ready to be moved to the launch area.

Ignacio lowering Seabiscuit into the water.

We stayed in the marina for a few days, doing post boatyard clean-up, provisioning and enjoying the area.  

Two oystercatchers sitting on the dock at Marina Mazatlan. 
There was a small flock of them nearby and you could hear them going out to search for breakfast every morning.

Tuesday, March 1, 2022 - Marina Mazatlan to Stone Island Anchorage (13 nm, 1.8 hours):  We left the marina at 8:15 this morning, near high tide.  The channel leading to the marina is shoal and it is best to leave between mid and high tide to avoid scraping the bottom.  On the voyage, we tested the Wesmar stabilizer system and verified it was operating properly.    The Stone Island anchorage is just south of the Mazatlan Harbor, where the cruise ships and commercial vessels dock.  We cruised past the lighthouse and dropped anchor between two sail boats.  We dug out the deck chairs and enjoyed the afternoon sitting in the sun and watching the nearby activities.

The Mazatlan Lighthouse and the Crystal Lookout at the top of the hill, east of the entrance to the Mazatlan Harbor. 
Dave and I hiked up to the top in January.

The beach at Stone Island where there are a lot of restaurants and water activities available.

Wednesday and Thursday, March 2 - 3, 2022, Stone Island Anchorage to San Jose del Cabo (181 nm, 25 hours):  Anchor up this morning at 9:00 for the voyage to San Jose del Cabo.  The winds were light and the seas were calm, so we decided to run without the stabilizers.  We took turns at the helm, had sandwiches for lunch and enjoyed the nice weather.  Mid-afternoon, a pod of dolphins joined us and cruised the bow wake.  It doesn't matter how many times you see dolphins, they are always a welcome and enjoyable sight.

Sunrise, Stone Island Anchorage, Mazatlan, Mexico

Dolphins cruising our bow wake

Later in the afternoon, we had two blue whales cross in front of us and saw another large pod of dolphins.  The sun set and we turned on the radar and the navigation lights, had supper and then Dave took the first night watch.  I came back up at midnight.  It was a clear night with very little traffic and we had a chance to do some stargazing.

Sunrise at sea on the way to San Jose del Cabo.

As we got close to San Jose del Cabo, Dave saw a humpback whale breach and a sailfish leap out of the water and we both saw a humpback cow and calf.  We pulled into the marina Puerto Los Cabos at 10:00 and tied up in our slip.  We spent the rest of the day unlaxing and wandering around the marina.

Beer, fish tacos and chips and guacamole to celebrate our arrival in San Jose del Cabo.

We spent the weekend exploring the area, doing boat chores, walking and checking out the local restaurants.

The beach near Puerto Los Cabos Marina

Tuesday - Wednesday, March 8 - 9, 2022, San Jose del Cabo to Bahia Santa Maria (194 nm, 27 hours):  This morning the weather looked good for our overnight journey up the coast to Bahia Santa Maria.  We left the marina just before 9:00 and cruised west towards Cabo San Lucas.  We counted 8 humpback whales before rounding the cape to cruise north up the outside of the Baja peninsula.  

Rocks west of Cabo San Lucas

A blue whale, just below the surface of the water, crossed in front of our bow mid-afternoon.  The ocean swell was from the northwest as expected, but the winds were from the southwest which helped to knock down some of the swell and kept the wind waves at bay for most of the day.  The wind picked up later in the afternoon and blew 20 - 25 knots until it finally settled down again about 3:00 on Wednesday morning.  We pulled into Bahia Santa Maria at noon, rinsed the salt off of the boat, had lunch and spent the rest of the day unlaxing.

Fresh tuna and crackers for lunch at Bahia Santa Maria.  

We checked the weather for the next leg of the journey and decided to spend a few days here doing maintenance, projects and chores.

Sunrise, Bahia Santa Maria

The smallest person on the boat gets to work in the smallest spaces.
B working in the mid-ship hold.

Dave cleaning lobster we got from the local fishermen.  We made lobster salad for lunch and lobster pasta for supper.  We gave them some candy "for the children".

Saturday - Sunday, March 12 - 13, 2022, Bahia Santa Maria to Turtle Bay (231 nm, 34 hours):  We were up early this morning and on our way out of the anchorage at 5:45.  The winds had died down during the night and the seas were lumpy but not too bad.

Sunrise on Saturday morning after leaving Bahia Santa Maria

Sitting on the stern watching a sea gull flying along with us. 

The sea gull invited a few friends to join him as he surfed on the davit.  Dave went up to shoo them off and counted 20. 
You can image the mess we had to clean up after they left.

Mid-afternoon, I got hopeful that the wind would stay calm and that we would have a peaceful overnight voyage, but it wasn't meant to be.  The wind from the northwest picked-up about 19:30 and blew 20 - 25 kts until after midnight, creating short, steep seas and causing a few things to roll around, including us when we were off watch trying to sleep.

By the time my watch was over at 4:00, the wind was down below 15 knots.  Mid-morning we spotted two pods of humpback whales and two pods of dolphins.  We turned into Turtle Bay about 15:00 Sunday afternoon and dropped anchor west of the fuel dock.  We rinsed the salt off the boat and the bird poop off the decks and the solar panels, then settled in for happy hour beers.

Monday morning we put the dinghy in the water and went to town to use the internet and stretch our legs.  We worked on boat projects for the next few days while waiting for a weather window to continue north.  

Baking scones (craisin, coconut, walnut) counts as a boat project.

Turtle Bay anchorage

Early Thursday morning we watched three sailboats leave the anchorage and turn north so we decided to go into town to get internet and check the weather.  A window had opened up and if we left tonight, we would get to Ensenada before a front moved in on Saturday night.  We headed back out to the boat and got ready for the next leg of the voyage.

The dinghy on the beach at Turtle Bay.

Pedro from Turtle Bay.  He watched the dinghy for us while we wandered around town and helped us get rid of our trash.

Thursday - Saturday, March 17 - 19, Turtle Bay to Ensenada (283 nm, 40 hours):  We heaved anchor at 17:45 and turned north out of Turtle Bay.  We estimated it would take us 40 hours to get to Ensenada if we averaged 7 knots, so by leaving early evening, we would arrive there in daylight Saturday morning.  The wind blew 20 - 25 knots until after midnight and we bumped along up the coast.  The moon was full and provided lots of light.  

During one of his engine room checks on Friday, Dave found that the Wesmar stabilizer cooling water pump was weeping so we shut down the system and he installed a new pump.  The rest of Friday was uneventful.  By the time I came up for my watch at midnight, the wind had died down to below 15 knots; there was a long, low swell with no wind waves so it was a calm night of cruising.  

We pulled into Cruiseport Village Marina in Ensenada Saturday morning and were secure in our slip by 10:30.  We got checked in to the marina, then went to the Port Captain's office to check in to Ensenada.  We had lunch at a nearby seafood restaurant, then spent the rest of the day unlaxing.

Sea lions on the dock at Cruiseport Village Marina, Ensenada.

Monday we decided to go up to Valle de Guadalupe, the wine valley about 30 miles north of Ensenada.  This article, Valle, provides a good overview of the area.  We rented a cabin at Cerveceria Bellinghausen, a nano-brewery in the town of Valle de Guadalupe.  Unfortunately, the brewery is only open for tasting on the weekends so we didn't get to try any of the beer.  The owners, Erika and Todd, were there on spring break with their kids and provided us with a lot of good suggestions of nearby places to eat and drink.  Monday night we wandered around town and had supper at a local restaurant.

Tuesday, we spent the morning enjoying the courtyard at the brewery, then walked to Fuentes winery for wine tasting.  We ate brunch at Restaurante Sarmiento's.  Our next stop was Dubacano Winery; we sat outside on their patio and tasted a variety of wines.  From there we went back to our cabin for an afternoon nap, then played a game of corn hole.  For supper, we walked into town and ate empanadas at a roadside stand.

The brew pub / beer garden at Cerveceria Bellinghausen.

B and Dave having wine and brunch at Restaurante Sarmiento's and Vinos Fuentes.

B and Dave wine tasting at Vinos Dubacano.

Dave tossing a bean bag during a game a corn hole at Cerveceria Bellinghausen beer garden.

Wednesday morning we caught an Uber back to the marina in Ensenada.  After a few boat projects, we went for a walk along the waterfront then went to Hussong's Cantina  "the oldest and best known cantina in Baja California, Mexico" and the place where the margarita was invented.  

B at the Port of Ensenada sign on the malecon.

Dave sitting at the bar in Hussong's.

Hussong's famous margaritas.

Thursday morning we went to the Port Captain's office to clear out of the country and then spent the rest of the day getting ready for our voyage to San Diego.

Friday, March 25, 2022 - Ensenada to San Diego (66 nm, 9.5 hours):  It was foggy this morning when we left the marina so we turned on the radar and the navigation lights and cruised with them on until lunchtime.  The journey was uneventful.  We crossed the Mexico - US border at ~15:00 and tied up at the customs dock in San Diego at ~16:30.  We cleared into the US using the CBP ROAM app then tied up in our slip at the Harbor Police Guest Dock.  

We're booked in here for 10 days and are working on projects and exploring the area.

Until next time...

Seabiscuit is for sale.  See our March 6, 2022 blog posting for details.