Peru - Lima, Cusco, The Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu

 Location:  Mazatlan, Mexico

At the end of the last blog, we were in Baltra, Galapagos at the airport waiting for our flight out.  After a fascinating visit in the Galapagos Islands, we were ready for the second part of our vacation in Peru.  As our naturalist in the Galapagos, Lulu, told us many times the trip to Peru was very different than the Galapagos and we won't try to compare the two.

Our flight left Baltra mid-morning and we flew to Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city and main port.  John and Betty had completed their quarantine and had both tested negative for Covid and they rejoined us in Guayaquil.  We had a long layover before our flight to Lima so we hung around the airport, ate lunch, checked out the shops, read our books, people watched and ate supper.  We boarded the airplane and had an uneventful flight to Lima.  After clearing immigration, collecting our baggage and clearing customs, our Lima guide, Renato, met us outside the terminal and escorted us to the bus that would take us to our hotel in the Miraflores district.  Our host for the week, Eliacin, met us at the hotel, got us checked in and went over the schedule for tomorrow then we all headed to our rooms for a good night's sleep.

Saturday, January 29, 2022 - Lima, Peru  We had a buffet style breakfast at the hotel this morning then met in a conference room where Eliacin gave us an overview of our program in Peru.  Next was a lecture about Peru's ancient cultures and about the pre-Colombian artifacts that we would see later in the morning at the Larco Museum.  After the lecture, we boarded the bus and went to the museum.  We took a quick tour of the park across the street while Renato briefed us on the establishment of the museum then we went inside for a tour.  

The entrance to the Larco Museum.  The grounds are beautiful.

Nazca pottery inside the Larco Museum.

There are thousands of pieces of pottery stored in the Larco Museum's archives.

At the end of our tour, we went to the garden for a cooking demonstration.  The chef showed us how to prepare causa, a traditional Peruvian dish prepared with mashed yellow potatoes, shredded chicken, lime juice and avocados, and ceviche with tiger's milk, sea bass and octopus.  We all got a taste at the end of the presentation and copies of the recipes.  We had lunch, including pisco sours, in the garden after the demonstration.  Pisco sours are an alcoholic drink that originated in Peru made with Pisco, an unaged  brandy (grape based), egg whites, sugar, simple syrup, lime and angostura bitters.

Causa, a traditional Peruvian dish, prepared with yellow potatoes, avocado and shredded chicken.

The chef preparing the sea bass for the ceviche while Eliacin and the chef's assistant watch.

Ceviche with sea bass, octopus and tiger's milk.  Tiger's milk is a lime based marinade with garlic, peppers, onion and other spices, used to cure the fish in ceviche.

After lunch, we went to Lima's historic district and visited: the Santo Domingo church where we climbed up to the top of the bell tower; the Plaza de Armas, Lima's main square; and the historic house Casa de Aliaga, one of the oldest colonial mansions in Peru and still occupied by the Aliaga family and their desendants.  Jeronimo de Aliaga was an ally of Francisco Pizarro, a Spanish conquistador who led the Spanish expedition to Peru in the 1530s that would lead to the conquer of the Inca empire.

The inside of the Santo Domingo Church, Lima

A bell in the bell tower of the Santo Domingo Church, Lima

The view from the bell tower of the Santo Domingo Church, Lima

The courtyard of the Santo Domingo Church, Lima

The Lima Plaza de Armas and the front of the Lima Cathedral.  The Cathedral was closed and we weren't able to go inside.

We returned to our hotel for a rest and then we were on our own for supper.  Eliacin recommended a few neighborhood restaurants and most of us ate at the same one.  After supper, Rob, Dave and I wandered a few blocks to a place called Manolo's, a bakery famous for its churros.  We got two each of the vanilla, chocolate and dulce de leche filled churros and went back to the hotel lobby to enjoy them.  They were delicious.

Sunday, January 30, 2022 - Lima to Cusco, Pisac and Yucay  After breakfast this morning we went to the airport for our flight to Cusco.  Sheila, our guide for Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, met us at the Cusco airport where we boarded our bus for the trip to the Sacred Valley.  The Sacred Valley, formed by the Urubamba River, was important to the Incas as an agricultural center.  The map below shows the windy mountain roads that we drove from Cusco into the Sacred Valley and to the various towns we visited.

We stopped and took pictures from a scenic overlook then went down into the small town of Pisac for lunch.  After lunch, we watched a demonstration of how silver jewelry is made then walked through the local artist market.

Dave and B at a scenic overlook above the Sacred Valley

Our lunch spot in Pisac.  The town square, at the bottom of the photo, was under repair.

Local weavers at the Artesenal Market in Pisac

From Pisac we continued our journey through the Sacred Valley to the town of Yucay and the Museum of Living Culture.  We watched a demonstration of how adobe bricks are made, a demonstration of how chicha, a fermented corn drink, is made and fed and petted the llamas, alpacas, guanacos and vicunas.

A demonstration of how adobe bricks are made.  Sheila, our guide, is on the left.

A demonstration of how chicha, a fermented corn drink is made.  We were each given a small sample and used it as an offering to the mountain gods.

Llamas and alpacas at the Living Museum in Yucay.

Our hotel was only a few blocks from the museum.  We checked in, rested, then had supper as a group in the hotel restaurant.  

Monday, January 31, 2022 - Ollantaytambo and Chincero  This morning we went to the town of Ollantaytambo and toured the Incan ruins.  According to our tour notes the ruins here are "not ruins in the traditional sense... with original buildings of Inca construction where the Inca retreated to make their last stand in the highlands against the Spanish.  Running water still flows through the town in aqueducts and the agricultural terraces above the town are still in use."

A very narrow original Inca street with an aqueduct alongside, Ollantaytambo

Looking up at the Ollantaytambo Ruins.  We hiked the terraces and the stone steps to the top.

The amazing stone work of the Incas.  It is believed that because of the quality of the stonework, this site was a temple or a ceremonial center.

Another example of the Inca stone work

This site was still under construction when it was abandoned.  This ramp was used to get the stones in place before they were incorporated into the structures.

The wall of the six monoliths, Ollantaytambo Ruins

The view from one side of the ruins to the other

A view down at the town of Ollantaytambo

After lunch at a nearby hacienda, we drove up the mountains to the high plateau above the Sacred Valley and to the town of Chincero.  We stopped at a local weaving cooperative and learned about traditional weaving processes including the cleaning of the wool - they grate a root which makes soap then hand wash the wool; the spinning of the wool into yarn; the dyeing process using natural colors from plants and animals - they use parasites from cactus to make red; and the weaving.

Spinning the wool into yarn

After the weaving demonstration, and some shopping, we listened to a lecture about Andean agricultural techniques and how they are still in use today.

A sample of the different varieties of corn grown in the Andes

Tuesday, February 1, 2022 - Yucay to Aquas Calientes and Machu Picchu  This morning we checked out of our hotel, boarded the bus and transited to the train station in Ollantaytambo for the train ride to Aquas Calientes.  There are no roads from the Sacred Valley to Aquas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu, and everything is transported by train.  The train tracks run along the Urubamba River and the ride is about 1.5 hours.

Dave and B on the train from Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes.  In Peru, as part of their Covid prevention measures, you either had to wear a KN-95 mask, an N-95 mask or a double mask.  On the train you also had to have a face shield.

The Urubamba River.  It was the rainy season and the river was running at high speed.

About a week before we arrived in Peru, the river had washed out the train tracks near Aquas Calientes.  They had made repairs and re-opened the train service about 3 days before we arrived.

We walked from the train station to our hotel, dropped off our luggage then walked through town to the bus station.  From there you take the bus up the mountain to the Machu Picchu entrance.  If you zoom in on the map above, you can see the switchback road that the buses take up the mountain.  We had lunch before entering the Machu Picchu site.  It was raining when we arrived in Aquas Calientes, but the weather was with us and we had three rain free hours to tour the ruins before the rain started again.

The view of the Urubamba River from the bus as we made our way up the mountain

Our first peek at the ruins of Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

B and Dave with Machu Picchu in the background

Machu Picchu

The clouds moving across the mountains at Machu Picchu. We could see hikers coming over the top of this mountain near the end of one of the eight trails that approach Macchu Picchu 

The gate into Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu - The terraces in the background are outside of the city and were used for farming.
The different quality of the stone work indicates the function of each part of the city.  The walls here are thought to be from a warehouse area.  The high-quality stone work, with the tight fit that even a piece of paper won't go through, are thought to be parts of temples or ceremonial areas.

Machu Picchu

Our group at Machu Picchu - John, Betty, Dawn, Karen, David, Susie, B, Dave, Libby, Gene, Diane and Rob

The Temple of the Sun, the structure with the curved walls, at Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

This stone is shaped like the constellation Southern Cross and points to the south.  The guys were checking it against their phone compasses.

A baby llama grazing the main square of Machu Picchu. The park guides told us it was 3 weeks old.

Machu Picchu - you can see the river on the left side of the photo

Machu Picchu

A llama wandering around the Machu Picchu ruins.  Sheila, our guide, is in the yellow rain coat.

Looking down at the river valley from Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Guard huts protecting the entrance to Machu Picchu

Looking back at the Machu Picchu ruins as we were leaving the site.

It was pouring rain by the time we finished our tour.  We rode the bus back down the mountain and walked to our hotel to check in.  We were scheduled to stay at a modest hotel in Aqua Calientes, but got upgraded to the InkaTerra Lodge.  After settling into our rooms, we met near the fireplace in the main building for a pisco sour and to share our thoughts about the day.  We were on our own for supper, but most of us wandered into town to eat at the Indio Feliz.

The Indio Feliz restaurant in Aquas Calientes.

Wednesday, February 2, 2022 - Aquas Calientes to Cusco  At the lodge this morning, we had our choice of several different activities to start our day.  B went on a bird watching hike with Diane, Gene and Libby,  several others took a hike to look at the different types of orchids on the property and Dawn went to visit the Spectacled Bear in the rehabilitation center.  After our adventurers, we had breakfast then packed our bags and checked out of the hotel.  

A "banana tree" used to attract birds on the lodge property.  Each morning, they place overripe bananas in the tree branches.  I didn't get any good bird pictures, but we spotted over 10 different types including 4 different hummingbirds, several tanagers and euphonias and a mot mot.

Sheila led us on a walk through the town of Aquas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo.  We visited a local market, the town square and the church before going back to the lodge to collect our bags for the train ride back to Ollantaytambo.

Excavators working on the area where the railroad tracks were washed away.  Between the two excavators you can see the temporary tracks they installed to get the trains running again.

Statue in the main square, Aquas Calientes

A bridge across the Urubamba River used by hikers going to Machu Picchu

Saqra dance on the train back to Ollantaytambo

On the train ride back to Ollantaytambo, we were entertained by a Saqra dancing; in Quechua, the language used in the highlands, saqra means a mischievous, tempting being with the face of different animals such as bats, pigs, cats and dogs.  Following the Saqra dance, the railroad employees hosted a fashion show of the woven textiles (coats, scarfs, etc.) from the Peruvian Andes highlands.  Our bus was waiting for us at the train station and from there we drove up the mountain roads to Cusco.

A red "flower" at the end of a long stick was the sign for a Chicheria, a traditional bar where locals gather to drink chicha, a fermented corn drink, at the end of the work day.  

We arrived in Cusco well after dark, checked into our hotel and wandered to a nearby Chifa (Peruvian-Chinese) restaurant for supper.

Thursday, February 2, 2022 - Cusco  This morning we started with a tour of the Qorikancha, one of the most important temples of the Inca Empire, built near the center of Cusco which was the capital of the empire.  

Our guide, Sheila, explaining the different stone shapes used in Inca construction.

The Qorikancha courtyard

The grounds outside of the Qorikancha

A "window" in the Qorikancha that you can look through to the next room and the next and the next. 
Notice the quality of the stone work indicating that this was a temple.

Our next stop was the Sacsayhuaman Ruins, an Inca fortress above the city.  The stones used in the construction are some of the largest stones used in pre-Colombian construction in the Americas.  

Looking down at the city of Cusco from a scenic overlook near the Sacsayhuaman Ruins

The zigzag stone walls of Sacsayhuaman

B and Dave in front of the largest stone used in the construction of Sacsayhuaman

Back in town, we walked around the main plaza and toured the cathedral and the two churches on each side of it.  Along with the architectural details and the history of the cathedral and churches, Sheila explained some of the local symbolism that was incorporated into the religious art commissioned by Spaniards and created by the local population.  We had lunch at a nearby restaurant, then had the afternoon to explore the town on our own.  

Our music lecturer performing with local instruments.

A collection of ocarinas, musical wind instruments

Early evening, we had a lecture about local music which was very interesting, then we went to Tunupa, a restaurant near the Plaza de Armas, for our last supper of the tour.  We started the meal with a pisco sour and appetizers.  Eliacin had asked us earlier in the week if we wanted to taste cuy (guinea pig) and we all agreed to share one.  The waiter brought it out on a platter, we all took pictures, then they took it back into the kitchen to carve it up so that we could each have a piece.  We finished off the evening listening to a local band play and watching a group perform traditional dances.  A nice way to top off our trip.

Roasted cuy (guinea pig) - Peruvians typically serve cuy for special occasions, such as birthdays, anniversaries, etc.

Dancers performing at the Tunupa restaurant.  

Friday, February 4, 2022 - Cusco to Lima  We packed our bags this morning and left them outside of our hotel room.  The folks in our group scheduled to fly back to the United States tomorrow got their Covid tests then we went on a walking tour of the San Blas neighborhood in Cusco.  San Blas is an historical part of the city known for its artist galleries, small square, narrow streets lined with stone walls and its view of the historical center of Cusco.  

The San Blas square

A narrow, stone wall lined, street in the San Blas neighborhood

Libby pointing out a many cornered stone.

The San Blas neighborhood church

Three Peruvian ladies from the highlands wearing their traditional dresses as they walk up a street in San Blas.

Pottery at the Inca Museum in Cusco

After our tour of San Blas, we visited the Inca Museum then walked to the Plaza de Armas (the main square) and said goodbye to Sheila.  We were on our own for lunch so Dave and I had coffee at a small cafe then lunch at a restaurant on the square.  We had time after lunch, before our flight, to explore the local stores and we bought some chocolate and Maras salt mine pink salt. 

We loaded onto our bus mid-afternoon and Eliacin saw us off at the airport for our flight to Lima.  With the exception of Dave and I, everyone in our group had flights to the United States early on Saturday morning.  Renato met us at the airport in Lima and took the group to a nearby hotel, while Dave and I met our taxi driver for a ride to the apartment we had rented in the San Isidro neighborhood of Lima.  We arrived at the apartment safely, checked in, dropped our bags and went out for supper at a small restaurant nearby.

Saturday - Tuesday, February 5 - 8, 2022 - Lima, Peru  We spent the next four days touring the city of Lima.  We had a lazy Saturday morning at the apartment then went for a walk in the Bosque El Olivar (Olive Tree Forest).  After our walk, we had lunch at a neighborhood restaurant and got some groceries.  We had supper in the apartment and watched movies on Netflix.

A pond in the Olive Tree Forest (Park) in San Isidro, Lima, Peru.

Sunday morning we took at taxi to the Barranco neighborhood and toured the Pedro de Osma Museum and enjoyed the South Andean and Silver Rooms.  We had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Pacific Ocean then caught a taxi back to the apartment.

A piece of furniture on display at the Pedro de Osma Museum, Lima

Street art on a bridge in the Barranco neighborhood. 
The translation of the saying is "Let's make a Peru that we like"

Our view of the Pacific Ocean from the restaurant where we ate lunch.

Monday morning we took a walk around the San Isidro neighborhood and explored some of the pocket parks surrounded by apartment complexes.  Later that afternoon we took a taxi to the Parque de Las Aquas aka the Magic Water Circuit, a park full of dancing fountains that they light up at night.  We walked through the gardens and enjoyed the music and the light shows.

A dancing, lighted fountain at the Magic Water Circuit, Lima

Butterflies at the Magic Water Circuit, Lima

A teapot topiary fountain, Magic Water Circuit, Lima

Dave inside a lighted fountain, Magic Water Circuit, Lima

Tuesday was our last day in Lima.  We had enjoyed our visit to the Barranco neighborhood on Sunday so today we went on a guided walking tour.  We learned more about the street art and artists, discovered some hidden parks and ocean views, held our breath and made a wish as we walked across the Bridge of Sighs, had lunch at a neighborhood restaurant and capped it off with a homemade gelato in the main square.

A view of the beach north of the Barranco neighborhoo, Lima

The view of the beach and the marina from a hidden overlook, Barranco neighborhood, Lima

Street art by Jade Rivera, Barranco neighborhood, Lima

The key to the lock in the previous photo, Barranco neighborhood street art, Lima

Sculpture in the main square in the Barranco neighborhood, Lima

We went back to the apartment and spent the rest of the day resting and packing our bags for our early morning flight tomorrow.

Wednesday, February 9, 2022 - Lima to Mexico City  Our driver picked us up at 3:15 and took us to the Lima airport for an early morning flight.  We checked in with Copa, and similar to our experience flying to Quito, they asked if we had an onward ticket from Mexico to the United States (an onward ticket isn't required in Mexico).  We said no, but we had our boat in Mazatlan.  After showing them a copy of the Mexico Temporary Import Permit for Seabiscuit, they said ok and finished checking us in.  We cleared security, got a coffee, and people watched while we waited for our flight.  After a transfer in Panama City, we arrived in Mexico City mid-afternoon.  We checked into a hotel near the airport and spent the rest of the day unlaxing.

Thursday we flew from Mexico City to Mazatlan and got a taxi from the airport to the boat yard.  After assessing the progress on our projects, we decided it was best not to move back onto the boat until next week.  They were still painting and had plastic and tape covering the doors and windows into the saloon and pilot house so access would have been difficult.  We found a rental apartment available at a nearby complex and checked in.  We had pizza, salad and beer for supper and settled in for our stay.  

Friday morning, after breakfast at a local cafe, we walked to the yard to get a full update.  They figured another week to 10 days before the boat would be ready to go back into the water.  We spent the weekend walking around the neighborhoods nearby, reading by the pool at the apartment complex and lazing around.  Dave went over to the boat yard each morning and afternoon to check progress while I read and did administrative tasks.

We moved back on board Seabiscuit Thursday morning and made ourselves a list of projects that we want to get done before we leave.  We have been working on those while monitoring the progress of the yard crew.  We hope to be back in the water before the first of March.

Until next time...