Seabiscuit and Beyond: Mexico's Colonial Cities

Location: Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico

After Al and Patti's vacation, Dave and I decided to return to the mountains to explore some of Mexico's colonial cities and the history of their independence. First we went to Guadalajara for a few days to plan our route and then we proceeded to Guanajuato, a city rich in Mexican culture and history. Guanajuato was one of the richest gold and silver mining cities in the country and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Zone. The city is built in a bowl between several mountains and consists of narrow, winding streets and numerous steps to get up and down the hillsides. We rented a small house on the hill close to the El Pipila monument. El Pipila was a miner who, during the war of independence, volunteered to set fire to the Alhondiga (granary) where the Spanish were hiding out. The Alhondiga, being built of stone, was a strong fortress and the revolutionaries were having difficulty getting to the Spanish. The story says that El Pipila strapped a rock to his back to protect himself, made his way to the wooden door of the granary and set fire, clearing a way in for the rebels.

El Pipila Monument

The Alhondiga (granary)

While in Guanajuato, we enjoyed many of the historical sites, museums, activities and restaurants. The city is filled with gardens and squares, where it was pleasant just to sit and people watch. We'll let the pictures tell the stories of those adventures.

Burros in the city center

Looking up the hill at our rental house

The stairs going down (and up) the hill
from our rental to the city center

The same stairs, showing me part way down

A band playing at the Jardin de la Union,
the main garden in the city center.

The world's smallest mummy at
the Mummy Museum

Don Quixote and his faithful side kick
Pancho Sanchez at the Don Quixote Museum

Dave BBQing on our roof deck

A man selling cream puffs at Plaza de la Paz.
When he started the pile was about twice the size.

Student minstrel group, Estudiantinas, in front of the baroque
church of San Diego. These groups would lead walking tours
through the side streets and back alleys of the city center.

One of the gardens at ex-Hacienda de San Gabriel de Barrera.

A group of students performing jazz at the Juarez Theater.

Guanajuato means place of the frogs. When
you first enter the city, there is a fountain
surrounded with different types of
frog statues.

Dave and B in front of a small church in
Dolores Hidalgo

Dave and B at the Gene Byron hacienda.

A mural in Dolores Hidalgo depicting important
events of the Mexican Revolution.

While in Guanajuato, we also took a day trip to nearby Dolores Hidalgo, another important town in Mexico's fight for Independence. This is the town of Father Hidalgo, the priest famous for the Cry of Independence "El Grito".

From Guanajuato, we headed to San Miguel de Allende (SMA). During the mining days, SMA was developed to protect the silver and gold route from Zacatecas and Guanajuato to Mexico City. Another famous colonial city, SMA was home to Ignacio Allende, a leader of the rebel army. SMA is now a favorite spot for expats and artists (rumor has it that expats from 43 different countries make their home in SMA). We took time to enjoy the historical sites, to explore the town and to take some spanish lessons. During our visit, Dave received news that his father was very ill, so he headed back to New Hampshire to be with family. We love you Dad/Pa/Grampy.
We'll let the pictures tell most of the story of our time in SMA.

Corn stalks along the road from Guanajuato to SMA.

View from the roof garden at our first rental house.

Puddy, Doofus and Dave relaxing.

La Parroquia de San Miguel Archangel

Piano recital at the Angela Peralta Theater.

View of the Parroquia.

Dave - First day of Spanish class.

B - First day of Spanish class.

A mariachi band playing in the patio area of the libray,
prior to the Sunday House and Garden tour.

Gathering for the Friday night cantina tour.
We toured five cantinas, with one drink,
either beer, tequila or mezcal at each. Most of the cantinas
were places you wouldn't wander into by yourself
so it was great to go with a group.

Cantina No. 1.

Cantina No. 2.

A favorite taco stand on the corner near our first rental place.

A historic fountain with a mermaid sculpture.
Donkeys and horses used to drink here. You
can see where their necks have worn away
the stones.

View across Lake Jalpa, where we went for a Sunday hike.

The bells at the Parroquia. If you look closely,
you can see the boys ringing the bells. Our second rental was
just behind the church. The bells started ringing
every day at 6:30 so no alarm clock required.