Container Ship Trip - Newark, NJ, USA to Buenos Aires, Argentina (February 11 - March 12, 2020)

Location:  Kodiak, AK

We're in Kodiak getting Seabiscuit ready for the summer season.  We are late this year because of some COVID-19 related travel delays but we are making progress.  We're still catching up on our blog posts; this one covers the details of our voyage on the container ship Buxcoast from New Jersey to South America in February and March, 2020.

View of the Buxcoast deck from our stateroom window, Newark New Jersey, USA, February 14, 2020

Tuesday, February 11 - Austin, TX to Jersey City, NJ:  Today we flew from Austin, TX to Newark, NJ.  The flight was uneventful.  We caught a Lyft from the airport to an AirBnB apartment in Jersey City.  We walked to a neighborhood bar for supper and settled in for the night.

Wednesday/Thursday, February 12 -13 - Jersey City, NJ:  We spent two days exploring the neighborhood.  We spent Wednesday afternoon at the Liberty Science Center enjoying the planetarium and the interactive exhibits.  It rained most of the day Thursday but we managed to do a little shopping and we had a nice dinner at Laico's.

Dave looking at the cotton-top tamarins at the Liberty Science Center
You can watch them live during the day on the Tam Cam

Friday, February 14 - Jersey City to Newark; on board the Buxcoast:  We weren't scheduled to board the Buxcoast until 19:00 so we checked out of our apartment mid-morning and went over to Newark.  We spent the afternoon at a mall, had lunch and went to see the movie Parasite, a South Korean movie about the disparity between the haves and the have nots.  We had supper then got a Lyft to take us to the Port Newark Container Terminal.  The driver dropped us off at the security gate, the guard checked us in and a van gave us a ride to the ship.  We climbed up the accommodations ladder and signed in.  The chief mate met us in the ship's office and Paul, the steward, took us up to our room to drop off our bags.  Paul then gave us a tour of the ship's house including the pool, sauna and exercise room, the dining rooms and galley, the officer's bar and the muster stations.  Back to our room and we unpacked and settled in.

The Buxcoast 

Our room, the Purser Cabin, consisted of a sitting area, bedroom and bathroom.

The bedroom in the Purser Cabin

Bathroom in the Purser Cabin

B hanging out in the sitting area of the Purser Cabin.

So... if you're wondering about taking a container ship cruise, here is our story.  We wanted to do something different for our winter vacation this year.  We did some research and thought it would be interesting to take a trip on a working container ship.  We used an agent, Maris, to help us book the trip (you can see voyage options, pricing, routes, etc. on their website).  We were looking for a oneway trip that lasted ~30 days and we wanted to spend some time before and after the voyage doing some land travel.  The Buxcoast route fit our requirements.  We booked our trip in August 2019 with plans to fly to Buenos Aires early February 2020, spend 10 days exploring Argentina, voyaging north up the coast of Brazil and disembarking in The Bahamas mid-March 2020 (Plan A).  In late January, we got a message from Maris saying that the Buxcoast routing had been changed and they would not be calling in Buenos Aires in February.  Our options were to wait until mid-March for the journey north from Buenos Aires or we could board in New Jersey for the journey south.  We chose the southern journey, departing mid-February from Newark and voyaging south to Buenos Aires (Plan B).

Typical Buxcoast routes north and south along the east coast of the Americas.

Saturday, February 15, 2020 - Newark, NJ to Offshore US East Coast:  They loaded containers onto the ship through-out the night and into the morning.  We woke up and went down to the dining room for breakfast.  The galley is central and there is a dining room on each side, one for the officers and one for the crew.  We ate on the officer's side.  Meals were scheduled with breakfast at 7:00, lunch at 12:00 and supper at 17:00.  Breakfast this morning was eggs cooked to order, bacon and toast with coffee and juice.  The ship had been operating off of its regular route and they were running low on provisions so no milk for the coffee.  The next provisioning was scheduled for Savannah in about a weeks time.  The Captain boarded the ship last night also so he introduced himself.  After breakfast we explored the ship to familiarize ourselves with the layout.  The crew was busy inspecting safety gear including fire extinguishers and survival suits.

Sunrise from our stateroom window Feb. 15th, Port Newark Port Terminal

Pulling away from the dock, Newark, Feb. 15th

The New York City Skyline and the Port Newark Terminal

Dave out on the wing as we leave Newark

Approaching the Verrazzano Narrows Bridge.

We were scheduled to depart at 13:00 so after lunch we went up to the bridge to watch as we pulled away from the dock.  At 15:00 we met the third mate in the ship's office for a safety briefing and a tour of the ship's decks.  It was still winter and there was ice on the decks as we walked along the port side.  Supper and we went to the officer's bar/rec room; we were the only people there and didn't stay long.  We were able to purchase beer, wine and snacks duty free from the ship's store and Paul delivered a case of bubbly water, a case of beer and red wine to our room.  We spent the rest of the evening in our room reading and unlaxing.

Sunrise, February 16, 2020.

Weather and routing chart from Newark to Norfolk.

Sunday, February 16 - Offshore East Coast USA to Norfolk, VA:  Breakfast then up to the bridge for coffee.  We did some more exploring then lunch.  Sunday lunches are steak and french fries with ice cream for dessert but... no ice cream this week, we'll have to wait until we re-provision in Savannah.  As we approached Norfolk, we saw the pilot boat come alongside so we went up to the bridge.  We spotted a few humpback whales feeding as we approached.

View of the Naval shipyards as we enter Hampton Roads, Norfolk, VA

Sunset February 16th, Norfolk, VA

Monday, February 17, Norfolk, VA to Baltimore, MD:  They loaded containers through the night and we were still at the dock in Norfolk this morning when we woke up.  We went down to breakfast and watched the ship leave the dock while we were eating.  The last time we were in Norfolk was in 2012 with Seabiscuit.  We had picked up our friend Bob and started our journey south down the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway); if you want to reminisce with us, check out our blog from November 15, 2012.  The Norfolk pilot had left the local Sunday newspaper up in the wheelhouse so we spent the morning up there reading and looking out the windows.  

We left the harbor and went offshore to anchor while we waited for our Chesapeake Bay pilot.  We got underway again about 17:00 and steamed overnight to the Baltimore terminal.

Container loading at the Baltimore docks.

Tuesday, February 18, Baltimore, MD:  We were alongside the docks in Baltimore when we woke up this morning.  We went up to the bridge after breakfast and the chief mate showed us how the container loading software worked.  We talked with the captain about disembarking and going into Baltimore but the process here was difficult so we stayed on board.  We had a good internet connection so we used our time to catch up on the internet and e-mail.  In order to travel light, we left our computers at home and relied on our phones and ipads, hence the delays in getting these blogs posted. 

Pulling away from the Baltimore Terminal

Heading out of Baltimore Harbor towards the Francis Scott Key Bridge

B unlaxing in our state room as we leave Baltimore Harbor

Wednesday, February 19, Chesapeake Bay to Offshore U.S. East Coast:  Voyaging today.

View of the deck from our window as we voyage south down the U.S. East Coast towards Charleston, SC

Routing and weather from Baltimore, MD to Charleston, SC printed on Feb. 16

Updated weather and routing from Baltimore, MD to Charleston, SC printed on Feb. 19

Thursday, February 20, Offshore Charleston, SC:  When we woke up this morning we were offshore circling near the Charleston sea bouy waiting for our pilot.  The weather wasn't very good and the wind and waves were too high for the pilot to come on board so we spent the day circling near the sea bouy.  The pilot finally came aboard about 22:00 and we headed into the harbor.

Weather chart showing the frontal system along the US East Coast

Sunrise at the Port of Charleston, SC

Friday, February 21, Charleston, SC:  We were alongside the dock in Charleston when we woke up this morning.  We had our breakfast and then prepared to go ashore for a day in town.  The Seaman's Center at the port helped to arrange a ride for us.  We started at the Visitor Center.  It was cold outside, about 35F/2C, so we went to a cafe for a hot cup of coffee. From there, we went to the Charleston Museum and spent a few hours looking at the exhibits.  For lunch we ate at a Thai restaurant.  We spent the early afternoon wandering around town then caught a ride back to the terminal and reboarded the ship.  We left the dock about 20:30 and headed towards Savannah, GA.

Saturday, February 22, Savannah, GA:  We have been on board a week now and are settling into a regular routine.  Breakfast and preparing for the day, a trip up to the pilot house for coffee, the news and a chat with the third mate, reading, lunch, exercise, more reading, supper, evening cocktails, reading and bed.  Today they were out of ground coffee in the pilot house, so we had Nescafe instant.  Savannah is a re-provisioning port so the ship will pick up some supplies and fresh provisions while we are here.  The wind and waves were still high and we spent most of the day circling near the Savannah sea bouy.  The pilot boarded ~18:45 and we headed up the Savannah River to the port.  

Sunrise, Port of Savannah, GA

Sunday, February 23, Savannah, GA:  We were at the dock when we woke up this morning.  It was cold out and we could see frost on the tops of the containers.  The ship did get some provisions and there was milk for coffee and yogurt for breakfast this morning, along with the traditional Sunday crepes.  We went ashore and got a ride into town.  We spent the day wandering around downtown and along the river front.  It was a beautiful sunny day and Savannah is a very pretty town with lots of parks and squares.

The Port of Savannah, GA

The plaque at the birthplace of Juliette Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts. 
The house was being renovated and wasn't open to visitors.

B getting ready to climb up the stairs from the riverfront to downtown, Savannah, GA

Mid-afternoon we headed back to the ship.  We left the Savannah docks at 23:00 and headed south towards Florida.

Monday, February 24, Savannah to Port Everglades, FL:  Voyaging today.

Weather and routing chart, Savannah, GA to Port Everglades, FL

Tuesday, February 25, Port Everglades:  We were at the dock in Port Everglades when we got up this morning.  We left the ship and went into Fort Lauderdale.  We caught a ride into town with a Massachusetts Maritime Academy graduate (2014) - he was just coming off duty from a trip to Europe where he served as the 2nd engineer on a container ship.  Mass Maritime is where Dave went to college so the two shared some stories about going to school there and about working in the maritime industry.  We wandered around town and ate lunch at a seafood restaurant along the waterfront.  Mid-afternoon we headed back to the ship aftering getting a few snacks and groceries.  We pulled away from the dock late that evening and headed south into the Caribbean.

Sunrise, Port Everglades, Floride

Wednesday, February 26, Offshore between Florida and the Bahamas:  Voyaging day today.  The weather was much nicer than it had been and mid-afternoon we took a walk around the deck.  

B looking out the bow, offshore in the Caribbean.

Weather and routing map, Port Everglades, FL to Caucedo, Dominican Republic

Thursday, February 27, Offshore Caribbean somewhere between Hispanolia and Puerto Rico:  Another voyaging day today.  The captain supplies us with the news every day and most of the conversation today was about the coronavirus spreading to Europe.  We had an afternoon walk around the deck.

Sunrise, Offshore in the Caribbean

Dave having his morning coffee in the pilot house.

A frigate bird riding the thermals produced by the ship.

Friday, February 28, Caucedo, Dominican Republic:  We were alongside the dock in Caucedo, Dominican Republic when we got up this morning.  The captain recommended that we not go ashore, so we spent the day reading and watching the cranes load and unload containers.  They finished loading the ship about 18:00 and we pulled away from the dock ~18:30.

Sunrise at the port in Caucedo, Dominican Republic

Container storage area at the port, Caucedo, Dominican Republic

Watching containers getting stacked on deck, Caucedo, Dominican Republic.

Saturday, February 29 to Sunday, March 8, Domican Republic to Santos, Brazil:  This was the longest part of the voyage with no port calls.  The captain set-up a BBQ for us and the crew on Saturday night, February 29th.  With all of the U. S. East Coast port calls, the crew had been working a very erratic schedule so this was a nice break for them.  We settled into our daily routine.  The weather was nice and the seas were calm and we were able to walk the deck every day.  They set-up deck chairs for us and we spent afternoons outside reading and watching the sea birds.

The second mate tending the fire at the BBQ while Paul and two crew members wait for their meat to finish cooking.

The crew enjoying the Saturday night BBQ

Weather and routing map, Caucedo, Dominican Republic to Santos, Brazil

B in the swimming pool.  A refreshing way to cool off after our afternoon walks around the deck.
They used the fire water pumps to fill it up after we got into calm water south of the Dominican Republic.

Dave in the swimming pool.

Dave and the third mate in the wheel house during our morning coffee break.

The chief mate working in the ship's office.

Engineers in the control room

Dave and the chief engineer in the control room

Dave and the electrician in the emergency generator room

The cook in the galley

Participating in an abandon ship drill

Paul, the steward, working in the galley.

Sunday morning crepes, one of our favorite meals.

A crew member practicing basketball on the stern deck.

Sunset as we approach Santos, Brazil.

On Friday, March 6th, we got word from the captain that the ship's schedule had changed and they would not be calling in Buenos Aires.  The new route would be to call in Santos on March 9th as planned, then anchor offshore until March 16th.  From there, the ship would return to Santos and then head north up the coast of Brazil, into Columbia and the Gulf of Mexico where she would make calls in Mexico and Houston and then head south again.  The ship's agent suggested we prepare to disembark when we arrived in Santos.  We spent the weekend going over our options and travel plans based on getting off the ship in Santos (Plan C).  Since we were at sea, we didn't have an internet or phone connection and we were unable to do any concrete planning prior to arrival

Monday, March 9, Santos, Brazil to Foz de Iquazu, Brazil:  We arrived in Santos and docked early this morning.  The captain called us at 6:30 to come up to his office and meet with the port agent to discuss our plans and to provide details of our departure.  We agreed that we would disembark at 14:00 and the port agent would make arrangements to get us out of the port area and into Santos.

At the dock, Santos, Brazil

Because of our earlier experience with the ship changing its port of call schedule (Plan A to Plan B), and the costs associated with changing flights and cancelling accommodations, we hadn't made any reservations or plans except for our return flight from Buenos Aires to Orlando on March 23.  We spent the morning on the internet looking at flights and accommodations.  We decided to go to Iguazu Falls for a few days and then on to Buenos Aires.  We booked an AirBnB apartment in Foz de Iguazu, Brazil but we were unable to book our flight.  We had lunch and packed our backs then waited for our escort to show up.  He arrived at 14:30, escorted us through customs and immigration and out of the port and gave us a ride to a hotel in downtown Santos.  From there, we got an Uber to the airport in Sao Paulo.  Once we arrived at the airport, we were able to get on the flight that evening to Foz de Iguazu.  The flight was uneventful and we arrived at the apartment about 22:00.

Tuesday, March 10, Foz de Iguazu, Brazil:  We were able to book a tour to Iguazu Falls and our tour guide picked us up at 6:30 this morning.  We crossed the border into Argentina and picked up another passenger, Max from Paris, for a tour of the falls.  We arrived at the park entrance about 7:30 and were the first car in the parking lot.  The park doesn't open until 8:00 but the lines fill up quickly so it was worth it to get there early.  We got our tickets, then studied the maps and lined up at the entrance gates.  Our goal was to get on the first train of the day up to the top of the falls; you get to the top quicker because you don't have to transfer trains at the mid-way point and it allows you to beat some of the crowds and avoid some of the heat.

Map of Iguazu Falls Park

Dave and B at Devil's Throat, the height of the falls on the Argentina side. 
The wind was blowing from the falls to the viewing platform and we were soaked.

Dave and B on the trails along the top of the falls on the Argentina side.  

Looking down at the boat tours that take you to the bottom of the falls.

A cayman along the trail.

After viewing Devil's Throat, we rode the train back down to the mid-way station and spent the rest of the morning walking the trails along the upper side of the Argentina falls.  We had empanadas for lunch then went back down to the car to go to the Brazilian side of the falls.

Max and Dave waiting in the shade near the gift shop on the Brazilian side of the falls.

Our guide, Airton, compared the two sides as follows:  "Argentina has the TV, but Brazil gets to watch the TV" (i.e. Argentina has most of the waterfalls on their side, but you can't see them unless you are on the Brazil side).  Both sides are very beautiful, but Max, Dave and I all agreed that we liked the Brazilian side better.  It gives you a perspective of the size, strength and beauty of the falls that you don't get on the Argentina side. 

B, Dave and Max on the Brazilian side of the falls, note the coati behind B's legs.

The falls on the Brazilian side.

We finished our tour and went back to the apartment to rest before supper at a nearby churrascaria. 

Wednesday, March 11, Foz de Iguazu, Brazil:  We spent most of today making plans and reservations for the rest of our trip:  we booked transport from Foz de Iguazu to the Iguazu Falls airport, a flight from Iguazu Falls to Buenos Aires, a hotel in Buenos Aires for Thursday night, a hotel in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay for Friday night, an AirBnB apartment in Montevideo for Saturday and Sunday nights and an AirBnB apartment in Buenos Aires for Monday, March 16 - March 23.  We had our flights booked from Buenos Aires back to Orlando but not our onward flights to Austin, TX and then Kodiak, AK so we booked those.  We had lunch at a nearby restaurtant and supper at a pizza restaurant.  This was our first day with access to a steady news stream since we boarded the ship in February and most of the news was about the coronavirus.

Thursday, March 12, Foz de Iguazu, Brazil to Buenos Aires, Argentina:  We got a ride across the border to the airport in Iguazu Falls, Argentina and flew from there to Buenos Aires.  A taxi took us from the airport to our hotel.  We checked in then walked to the Buquebus office and booked ferry tickets from Buenos Aires to Colonia and from Montevideo back to Buenos Aires.  We stopped for supper at a small Italian restaurant then went back to our hotel to relax for the evening.  Tomorrow we travel to Uruguay.

B drinking homemade lemoncello at an Italian restaurant in Buenos Aires.

Until next time...