West Coast Vancouver Island - South

Location:  Victoria, BC

Cruising the southern half of the west coast of Vancouver Island has been interesting.  It has been a mix of marinas and anchorages and civilization slowly snuck up on us as we got closer and closer to Victoria.

Seabiscuit at the dock, Westview Marina, Tahsis, BC

Sunday, September 10^th, Tahsis to Moutcha Bay Resort:  We left the Westview Marina dock at 9:00 a.m. and headed south down Tahsis Inlet and then north up Tlupana Inlet.  Our chartplotter GPS quit working so we used our back-up system on the iPad.  We wanted to stop at Critter Cove Marina for the night but as we got close we could see that they were shut down for the season.  We continued north and decided to try Moutcha Bay Resort, a new sport fishing resort located in Moutcha Bay at the north end of Tlupana Inlet.  Their primary business is fishing charters and they aren’t really set-up for cruising boats.  We tied up at one of the finger piers, no power and no water, and walked up to the lodge to check-in.  They were in the process of the end of the season shut-down, the restaurant / bar was closed and the resort crew had a serious case of end-of-season-itis.

Salmon caught by a fisherman operating out of Westview Marina, Tahsis, BC

From the bow of the boat, we could see salmon gill-net fishermen setting their nets just outside the marina.  We watched three stellar sea lions swim up to the nets, work a salmon out, carry it about 100 meters away and then thrash their heads side to side above the water to kill the fish and break it into edible chunks.  A flock of seagulls swarmed over the sea lion’s heads hoping to get a piece of the salmon.  Although it must have been frustrating for the fishermen to see their catch get taken, it was fascinating to watch.

Old growth cedar tree in the forest along the boardwalk to the hotsprings

Dave walking along the boardwalk to the hotsprings

Monday, September 11^th, Moutcha Bay to Hot Springs Cove:  We left Moutcha Bay at 8:15.  It was raining and the wind and seas outside of Nootka Sound didn’t sound very promising.  The weather forecast was for a front to move in later in the day.  We cruised south of Nootka Light Station for a look at the seas and decided they were ok to make our run south along the coast and around Estevan Point.  The seas were confused and we saw some wind gusts greater than 25 knots.  We made it around Estevan Point at 12:30, crossed Hesquiat Harbour and turned north into Hot Springs Cove about 14:00.  We dropped anchor and settled in just north of the Hot Springs Park public dock.  The Hot Springs are one of the prime tourist destinations for people visiting Tofino and we had a good view of the tour boats and float planes coming and going.

View of the tidal pools from the hotsprings

Tuesday, September 12^th, Hot Springs Cove to West White Pine Cove:  We launched the dinghy and tied up at the public dock for a visit to the hot springs.  It’s a mile walk through the forest along a boardwalk to get to the hot springs.  We timed it right and when we got to the springs we had them to ourselves.  We sat and enjoyed the soak in the hot pools with a great view across Sharp Point and Clayoquot Sound.

We heaved anchor early afternoon and voyaged around the north and west sides of Flores Island to West White Pine Cove, just northwest of Bawden Bay.  This was a beautiful anchorage, well-protected and calm.  We anchored in the middle of the outer cove.  We took advantage of the sun and did some reading on the stern and some outside chores.  As the sun went down, we saw a bear feeding on the grassy flats on the east side of the cove and a dolphin feeding nearby.

Mergansers, West White Pine Cove

Kayaking, West White Pine Cove, notice how clear the water is

Wednesday, September 13^th, West White Pine Cove:  We launched the kayaks and went for a paddle around the inner and outer coves and explored the mouths of several creeks that drain into the coves.  Another sunny day so we spent the afternoon doing outside chores.  After supper, I went for a sunset kayak cruise around the coves looking for wildlife.  I didn’t see any bears but I did see a weasel-like animal on the rocks along the shore.  He was very curious and scampered back and forth while checking me out.

B out for a sunset kayak tour, West White Pine Cove

Weasel on the shoreline rocks, West White Pine Cove

Thursday, September 14^th, West White Pine Cove to Tranquilito Cove:  We heaved anchor at 7:45 and cruised from West Clayoquot Sound to East Clayoquot Sound via the Matlset Narrows on the north side of Meares Island.  It was sunny and clear and a nice day for a cruise amongst the islands.  We dropped anchor just after 12:00, had our lunch and settled in.  Tranquilito Cove is a small cove on the east side of Tranquil Inlet, very picturesque with rock walls on the north side of the cove and a good view of the grassy flats at the head of Tranquil Inlet.  We sat on the stern and did some reading while enjoying the afternoon sun, then did a few outside chores.  For supper we barbequed steaks.  We saw a bear walking along the rocks on the south side of the cove.

Dave doing an outside chore (sanding and painting), Tranquilito Cove

Seals sunning themselves, Tranquil Inlet

Friday, September 15^th, Tranquilito Cove to Ucluelet:  We got underway at 7:00 and cruised out of Clayoquot Sound, around Amphitrite Point and into Ucluelet Inlet.  We docked in the Ucluelet Small Craft Harbour and walked into town for lunch.  We spent the afternoon planning our next few days of cruising, did some laundry and went to the Float House Restaurant, located in the small craft harbour, for supper.

View of Tofino

Sea otter near Ucluelet, BC

Saturday, September 16^th, Ucluelet:  Saturday morning we walked up to the grocery store to stock up with enough stuff to keep us fed until we got to Victoria.  For lunch, we went to a nearby bowling alley/restaurant/pub.  For our afternoon activity, we walked the trail around the Amphitrite Point Lighthouse then walked back along the coast road.  We stopped at the Black Rock Resort for happy hour.  They have a beautiful view of the ocean, the beach and the rocky shoreline.

Tree on the trail near Amphitrite Lighthouse

Amphitrite Lighthouse

Sunday, September 17^th, Ucluelet to Turtle Bay:  We left Ucluelet at 8:30 before the rain started and the wind picked up.  We cruised about 11 nm to Turtle Bay (Joes Bay) between Dodd, Willis and Turtle Islands.  These islands are part of The Broken Group in Barkley Sound.  The weather for the next few days was forecast to be wet and windy so we tucked in to wait it out.

Monday / Tuesday, September 18-19, Turtle Bay:  Monday it rained most of the day so we stayed on the boat, reading, unlaxing and doing inside chores.  Tuesday morning was clear.  We finished some chores in the morning.  Tuesday afternoon we launched the dinghy and went fishing west and north of Dodd Island.  We didn’t catch anything.  A light rain started at about 15:00 so we went back to the boat for the rest of the afternoon.

Sunrise, Turtle Bay

Wednesday, September 20^th, Turtle Bay to Bamfield:  We left Turtle Bay at 10:45 and headed toward Bamfield.  We stopped to do some fishing along the way but didn’t catch anything but we did see a whale feeding in Trevor Channel.  We cruised into Bamfield Inlet and tied up to the public dock on the west side of town.  The town is divided by the inlet and has facilities both on the east and west sides.  We walked the boardwalk along the shore to the coast guard station, then walked the dirt road across Mills Peninsula to Brady’s Beach.  We picked up a pizza from the store on our way back to the boat.

Seal lion swimming between the docks, Bamfield

Bamfield Water Taxi

Thursday, September 21^st, Bamfield:  Another beautiful, sunny day.  We spent the morning fresh-water rinsing and stowing our fishing gear and doing maintenance.  We did some outside chores, took down the bimini, stowed the stern-tie line and went for a walk along the boardwalk.  For supper, we launched the dinghy, crossed the inlet to the east side of town and ate at the local pub.

Brady Beach, Bamfield, BC

Dave enjoying a cold beer on the patio at the Bamfield Pub

The Francis Barkley, a ferry that runs between Port Alberni and Bamfield

Friday, September 22^nd, Bamfield to Port Renfrew:  We had a nice two day weather window to make the run down Juan de Fuca Strait to Victoria.  The first leg, from Bamfield to Port Renfrew, was 42 nms.  We left the dock at 7:45, exited Barkley Sound and turned east around Cape Beale.  There was a low swell and very little wind and the voyage was uneventful.   We saw three orcas heading west, one male with a huge dorsal fin and two females.  We turned into Port San Juan mid-afternoon and tied up at the dock at the Pacific Gateway Marina.  For supper we walked down to the Port Renfrew Pub near the government dock.

Port Renfrew Pub

Orca dorsal fin

Saturday, September 23^rd, Port Renfrew to Esquimalt:  The second leg of the voyage, from Port Renfrew to Victoria, was 50 nms.  Another nice day to travel with very little swell and light winds.  As we neared Sooke, the water was full of small fishing vessels and we saw a few reel in fish.  We didn’t see any whales but as we got close to Victoria, we saw lots of whale watching tour boats.  Esquimalt Harbour is only five miles from the Victoria Inner Harbour and is the base for Canada’s Pacific Naval Fleet.  We pulled in and anchored south of Cole Island which used to be a munitions storage area between 1860 and 1938.

Fisgard Lighthouse at the entrance to Esquimalt Harbour

Sunday, September 24^th, Esquimalt:  Today we launched the dinghy and went sightseeing around the harbor.  We landed at the float on Cole Island and explored the old munitions storage buildings.  The tide was up so we were able to cross the tidal flats and cruise underneath the Island Highway Bridge that crosses Mill Stream.  There is some very creative graffiti under the bridge along with areas used by skateboarders.  We beached the dinghy at Parsons Bridge Park, walked along the shoreline path and then went up the stairs to Six Mile House for happy hour and supper.  Six Mile House was established in 1855 and holds the longest continuous pub license in the province.

Ammunition storage building, Cole Island

Ammunition storage building, Cole Island

Dinghy beached near Parsons Bridge Park

Six Mile House Pub, Victoria, BC

Monday, September 25^th, Esquimalt to Victoria:  Our last voyage of the summer season.  We heaved anchor at 9:30 for the voyage to the Victoria Inner Harbour.  The inner harbor is still busy with tourist activities, several whale watching tours were leaving the harbor as we were entering and three float planes landed.  We are tied up at the Wharf Street docks and are in the process of settling in for the winter.

Seabiscuit in her winter berth, Wharf Street Marina, Victoria, BC

Tuesday / Wednesday, September 26th & 27, Victoria:  We're spending our time running errands and getting the boat ready to leave it at the dock for the month of October while we do some land based traveling.  Tomorrow we fly to New Hampshire to visit family and to attend our niece, Erin's, wedding.

Until next time…

Topiary orcas near the Empress Hotel, Victoria, BC