Hoonah, Juneau, Haines and Skagway

Location:  Juneau, Alaska

Orca in Lynn Canal

April 25 - 26, Thursday - Friday, Hoonah:  It was overcast and rainy while we were in Hoonah so we decided to tackle a big maintenance chore, cleaning our forward fuel tanks.  Dave transferred the last of the fuel from both tanks into the day tanks and we got busy.  The first step was to move everything out of the mid-ship hold so that we would have good access to the tank hatches there.  Thursday morning we cleaned the port tank – took off the hatch cover in the engine room and the three covers in the mid-ship hold.  Dave trimmed the gaskets on each of the covers.  When we had replaced them last time, we left in the center section.  With no material between these center sections and the fuel, they had swollen and deformed.  The gasket material on the flange faces was still in good condition, so we cut out the center sections and left the gasket material between the hatch covers and the flange faces.  

Starboard forward fuel tank hatches in the mid-ship hold, open and ready for tank cleaning. 

Starboard forward fuel tank hatch in the engine room.

Once that was complete, we cleaned the sides and bottom of the tank using clean diesel fuel, then vacuumed out the sediment from the bottom of the tank.  The last step was re-installing the hatch covers and torquing the bolts that hold them in place.  

Sunset Hoonah Harbor

 Friday morning we cleaned the starboard forward fuel tank.  After we finished re-installing the hatch covers, we cleaned the mid-ship hold bilge and re-stowed everything.  We did some laundry, took a short walk around town, filled water and prepared for tomorrow’s departure.

Difficult to see but there is a large bald eagle nest in this tree near the Hoonah Harbor Master's office

April 27, Saturday, Hoonah to Auke Bay (41 nm, 5.9 hours):  We left the Hoonah transient dock at 8:00 for our cruise to Auke Bay, just north of Juneau.  It was a sunny, calm day and we had an uneventful voyage.  The docks at Auke Bay are first-come, first-served with no assigned slips.  When you enter the harbor, you find an empty spot and tie up.  It isn’t crowded this time of year and we didn’t have any trouble finding a space alongside the dock.  We tied up about 14:00 and settled in for the afternoon.  We took a walk around the harbor area, then had supper at the Devil’s Hideaway.

Humpback whale as we were leaving Hoonah Harbor

Light house buildings on Point Retreat at the north end of the Mansfield Peninsula

April 28, Sunday, Auke Bay:  Another beautiful, sunny day.  We caught the bus to Home Depot, then went to Costco to stock up for the season.  We took a cab back to the harbor and got everything loaded onto the boat and stored.  For supper, we picked up some burgers and onion rings at Hot Bites.

Looking east from the stern, Statter Harbor, Auke Bay.

April 29, Monday, Auke Bay:  We spent the morning doing boat chores.  After lunch, we took the bus to Fred Meyer to get some fresh produce and top up items that we didn’t buy at Costco.  We had supper on the boat, did some voyage planning and prepared for departure in the morning.

April 30, Tuesday, Auke Bay to Haines (62 nm, 8.9 hours):  Another beautiful, sunny day.  We checked into the morning HAM net and then left the Auke Bay docks at 8:00.  We cruised north up Lynn Canal, the largest Fjord in the U.S.  The winds were light and the seas were calm and it was a nice day to be out on the water.  We saw four orca swimming south, two mothers and two calves. 

Eldred Rock Lighthouse, Lynn Canal

Four orca, two mothers and two calves, in the Lynn Canal

Mountains along the west side of the Lynn Canal

We tied up at the dock in the Haines Small Boat Harbor about 16:00.  For happy hour, we went to the Haines Brewing Company and we ate supper at the Fireweed Restaurant.

View from the Haines Brewing Company tasting room, Haines, Alaska.

May 1, Wednesday, Round Trip - Haines, Alaska to Haines Junction, Yukon Territory  (350 miles by car):  We decided to rent a car today to drive to the nature areas around Haines and to explore the Haines Highway.  We started with Lutak Inlet, north and east of town.  We had been told that the “hooligan” (aka eulachon or smelt) were in the bay and that there was a feeding frenzy with the birds and sea lions getting their fill.  It was close to low tide and we didn’t see any sea lions, but we saw lots of birds, mostly surf scoters and gulls.  As we were watching a raft of surf scoters near shore, all of a sudden, just like synchronized swimmers, hundreds of them dove under the water and resurfaced simultaneously.

Surf Scoters in Lutak Bay

Next, we headed north and west out of town on the Haines Highway.  We passed the Alaskan Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve on the Chilkat River, which is famous for the thousands of bald eagles that arrive each fall to feed on the salmon after they spawn.  There were no bald eagles this time of year, just miles of gravel / sand river delta.  We continued north across the U. S. / Canadian border into British Columbia and then up above the tree line into the alpine section of the highway and into Yukon Territory.  

B at the Yukon Territory Sign

The snow covered mountains were amazing, some of them were all white with no rocks or trees visible.  We stopped along the way for a better view of the snowmobile, ski and animal tracks in the snow along the roadside.  

Ground squirrel near a snowmobile area.

We arrived in Haines Junction, had lunch at a local restaurant, topped off our gas tank and headed back south.  We stopped for a hike at the Million Dollar Falls Campground - "The name comes from a U.S. army maintenance camp constructed during the building of the Haines Road and Haines-to-Fairbanks pipeline in the 1940s. The camp has a barracks, officers' quarters and a 21-toilet bathing room. It was rumoured to cost a “million dollars” to build, but was never used."  We saw lots of moose and bear tracks along the road to the campground, but didn’t see any animals.

Moose track on the road into Million Dollar Falls Campground

Million Dollar Falls.

Two swans, either trumpeter or tundra, feeding in a small pond along the Haines Highway.

We drove back into Haines, then went south of town to the Chilkat State Park, a beautiful area overlooking the waters of the Chilkat Inlet.

May 2, Thursday, Haines:  Chores this morning.  Dave put on his diving gear to inspect the boat bottom and our aluminum hull anodes.  The water temperature was 45F / 7C.  All looked well and he didn’t stay in long.

Dave diving in the Haines harbor.

For our afternoon adventure, we strolled the historic Fort Seward area, an old military installation, then strolled along the rock covered beach.  

Looking across the Fort Seward parade grounds at the officer's housing.

The town is in the process of creating a sculpture garden amongst the ruins of one of the old barracks in Fort Seward.
This is an example of the art that is in place.  

The Tlingit welcome sign at Fort Seward.

Rocks on the beach below Fort Seward.

For happy hour, we went to the Port Chilkoot Distillery, a small, local business that distills gin, vodka, whiskey and absinthe.  Their business start-up story is interesting as they had to overcome prohibition era laws that were still on the books before they could open their tasting room.  We had supper at a local restaurant, then went back to the boat for reading and unlaxing.

May 3, Friday, Haines:  More maintenance chores this morning.  We went to the Sheldon Museum in the afternoon.

May 4, Saturday, Haines to Skagway (14 miles, 1.9 hours):  We left the Haines Small Boat Harbor ~9:00 for the short run to Skagway.  The wind was blowing 25 – 30 knots from the south and the tide was flooding towards the north, so we got a push.  We watched a large group of surf scoters feeding along the shoreline.  

Surf Scoters feeding along the shore of Taiya Inlet.

There was one large cruise ship at the dock in Skagway.  We made our way into the small boat harbor and tied up alongside “C” dock.  The wind was blowing something fierce, but at least it was pushing us onto the dock and not away from it.  We tied up and settled in then walked uptown for lunch.  Back to the boat for afternoon chores and internet.  For happy hour and supper, we went to the Skagway Brewing Company.

The Arctic Brotherhood Hall in Skagway.  It is decorated with over 8800 pieces of driftwood.

May 5, Sunday, Skagway:  We spent the morning doing chores and maintenance tasks.  After lunch we visited the National Park Service (NPS) Klondike Gold Rush Museum and Visitor Center and walked the Pullen Creek Trail. 

May 6, Monday, Skagway, Alaska to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory (110 miles by car):  The wind was still howling this morning so we put out some extra lines and fenders then rented a car and drove up to Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon Territory.  Up and over the White Pass summit, through Canadian Customs into B.C. and then into the Yukon.  We stopped at all the scenic overlooks and historical stops along the way.

A spruce grouse alongside the road near White Pass Summit.

B at the scenic overlook, Fraser Lake, BC.

We had lunch in Carcross, stopped at the “World’s Smallest Desert”, stopped to watch the mountain goats along the hillsides and cruised into White Horse mid-afternoon.  We stayed at a small B&B near downtown.  For supper, we ate at Antoinette’s a Caribbean Restaurant – very tasty.

The Carcross Desert.

Cabins at the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site.

Train tracks no longer in use, Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site.

Caribou crossing the Klondike Highway.

May 7, Tuesday, Whitehorse:  We started our day at the Whitehorse Visitor Center to get a recommendation for a day hike.  They suggested the trail that leads to the summit above Fish Lake.  We picked up some sandwiches at the local deli / meat shop and headed out of town to the trail head.  Fish Lake was still iced over, just starting to melt along the shoreline, and we could see someone skating off in the distance.  We hiked up the trail into the woods above the lake.  The trail was wet and muddy for the first half of the hike and icy and snow-covered as we neared the top of the tree line.  Once we got above the tree line, the views of the lakes and the surrounding mountains were amazing.

Dave hiking up the Fish Lake trail.

Fish Lake.

B scoping out the views of the surrounding mountains, Fish Lake.

Sign at the Fish Lake trailhead.

We walked back down to the car and spent some time watching the ducks feed on a small pond nearby – redheads, northern pintails, Barrow’s goldeneyes, northern shovelers and some others we couldn’t identify.  Our next stop was the suspension bridge over the Yukon River at Miles Canyon. 

View of Miles Canyon from the suspension bridge.

Looking down at the suspension bridge that crosses Miles Canyon.

Back to the B&B for a break, then we walked into town for happy hour at The Woodcutter and supper at the Dirty Northern.

May 8, Wednesday, Whitehorse to Skagway (110 miles via car):  We left Whitehorse about 8:00 for the drive back to Skagway.  We stopped in Carcross for a cup of coffee, then drove back over the White Pass summit through the fog and rain.  The fog lifted as we came down into Skagway.  We stopped at a scenic overlook on the way back into town and then returned the rental car.

View of the Skagway airport, downtown and the cruise ship docks.

Back at the boat all was well.  The wind was still howling, 30+ knots from the south.  I spent the afternoon touring the Skagway Museum and some of the NPS historic buildings.  We had happy hour at the Red Onion Saloon and supper at a restaurant near the harbor.

May 9, Thursday, Skagway to William Henry Bay (46 nm, 6.2 hours):  The wind finally quit blowing about 3:30 this morning.  We left the dock at 6:30 and headed south down Taiya Inlet and the Lynn Canal.  It was foggy most of the way and we ran the radar.  Very little traffic and an uneventful cruise to William Henry Bay.  We dropped off the crab trap and anchored off the eastern shore.  It was a sunny, calm afternoon.  We cleaned the starboard day tank then enjoyed the nice weather and the time away from the dock.

Looking out the William Henry Bay entrance at the mountains on the east side of the Lynn Canal.

May 10, Friday, William Henry Bay to Auke Bay (30 nm, 4.4 hours):  We picked up the crab trap on our way out of the bay this morning: one tanner crab, one Dungeness crab and one halibut.  We let them all go.  It was foggy on the way south so we ran the radar for about 2/3 of the voyage.  A few small fishing boats out and about but other than that it was quiet.  We pulled into Auke Bay Harbor around lunch time and docked at “D” dock.  Lunch and laundry, then cleaning of the port day tank and other maintenance tasks.

B pulling in the crab trap, William Henry Bay.

May 11, Saturday, Auke Bay:  We rented a car today.  Our first destination was the marine fuel dock on the south side of Juneau.  Yesterday we called around to check diesel prices and found that fuel on the south side of town was $0.15 less per gallon as compared to Auke Bay.  We wanted to confirm the pricing and to look at the fuel dock so that we would know what to expect when we pulled alongside.  Next was Home Depot, then Costco, then Fred Meyer and finally back to the boat to unload.  After we got everything stowed, we went up to Mendenhall Glacier.  They had some spotting scopes set-up in the visitor center and we got to see a mountain goat with a kid near a stream on the side of the mountain.  We walked a portion of the Trail of Time and the East Glacier Trail.

The Mendenhall Glacier.

A porcupine climbing a tree on the East Glacier Trail.

May 12, Sunday, Auke Bay to Juneau – Harris Harbor (31 nm, 4.3 hours):  We left the dock at 7:30 this morning and headed to the south end of Juneau.  Although it is only 9 miles by car to the south side of Juneau, it is 31 miles by boat.  The channel between Douglas Island and Juneau is too shallow to transit so you have to go around to the west coast of Douglas Island.  We tied up in Harris Harbor around lunch time.  Dave got busy transferring fuel from the aft tanks to the forward tanks while I walked up to the used book store, Rainy Retreat Books,  to see if I could find “Land of the Ocean Mists”, a book about "The Wild Ocean Coast West of Glacier Bay" – they had it.  We will be traveling this coast later this summer and, although it was written in 1986, it was recommended as one of the best history books about the Gulf of Alaska coast line between Cape Spencer and Dry Bay.  When I got back to the boat, we cleaned the starboard aft fuel tank.  For happy hour we went to the Red Dog Saloon and we had supper at V’s Cellar Door.

The Windfall Fisherman, a bronze sculpture of an Alaskan brown bear, Juneau.

Totem pole near downtown Juneau.

May 13, Monday, Juneau – Harris Harbor:  This morning we cleaned the port aft fuel tank – the last one.  All looks good and we are ready to take fuel tomorrow morning.   Our next stop will be Taku Bay.

Until next time...

Glacier Bay National Park

Location:  Hoonah, Alaska

Seabiscuit at the Glacier Bay National Park dock in Bartlett Cove

Rainbow over Eliason Harbor, Sitka, Alaska the night before we left the dock

April 9, Tuesday, Sitka to Kimshan Cove (51 nm, 6.8 hours):  We pulled away from the Eliason Harbor transient dock in Sitka at 8:15.  Overnight it had snowed and the mountains surrounding Sitka Sound and Mount Edgecumbe had a fresh layer of snow on top.   We motored north out of the harbor, up Olga Strait, up Neva Strait and then west through Salisbury Sound and out into the Pacific Ocean.  The wind was in the high teens, there was a 5 – 6 foot swell from the southwest and a light chop on the surface as we made our way north outside the Khaz Peninsula.  It rained most of the day and we did some rolling along the way but not too bad.  We saw some whales spout off in the distance and, as we entered Smooth Channel, you could look in any direction and spot a sea otter. We pulled into Kimshan Cove about 15:00 and dropped anchor on the east side of the cove. We settled in for a quiet night away from the big city.

Looking astern at the mountains surrounding Sitka as we made our way north. 
It had snowed the night before and they had a fresh layer of snow on top.

April 10, Wednesday, Kimshan Cove @ anchor:  It was a beautiful sunny day today.  We did some kayaking around the cove and enjoyed the nice weather.

Dave getting into his kayak from the stern.

Seabiscuit and the mountains on the north side of Kimshan Cove.

The old wharf pilings on the southeast side of Kimshan Cove.

Sunset at Kimshan Cove.

April 11, Thursday, Kimshan Cove to Pelican (34 nm, 5 hours):  We spent the morning doing chores and some voyage planning for our trip to Glacier Bay National Park while we waited for the tide to come up.  We fired up the main engine and heaved anchor about 13:30.  Our plan was to move up to Mirror Harbor, anchor and then go to nearby White Sulfur Hot Springs.  The route into Mirror Harbor is tricky with lots of rocks and tight spots to navigate around.  We arrived at Fairway Rock about mid-tide and turned into Fleming Channel out of the ocean swell.  We slowed down to minimal speed and started to pick our way through the rocks and the bull kelp.  All of a sudden, we heard “sssccccrrreeeee” as we scraped our port side along a rock.  No damage, but we’re sure we left some of our new paint behind.  We decided not to proceed any further, eased ourselves back out past Fairway Rock and headed for the town of Pelican.  We saw some whale spouts and a few sea otters as we turned into the south end of Lisianski Strait.  As we neared the north end and turned southeast into Lisianski Inlet, the wind picked up and it started raining.  We tied up at the Pelican city docks about 18:30 and walked up the ramp to the harbormaster’s office, the café and city hall (all closed).  By that time the rain was pelting down so we went back to the boat for a late happy hour and supper.

Fallen trees along the shoreline of Lisianski Strait.  They reminded me of pick-up sticks.

April 12 – 14, Friday - Sunday, Pelican:  We stayed in Pelican for four nights waiting for the weather in Cross Sound to settle before we continued our journey.  There are no pelicans in Pelican; the town is named after the boat of the town founder.  With population ~60, the town is built along the rocks and cliffs on the east shore of Lisianski Inlet.  The main thoroughfare is a boardwalk running roughly north/south with houses and businesses hugging the cliffs on one side and hanging over the high tide line on the other.  

An otter eating a clam in the alleyway next to the boat.

Every day we walked the boardwalk from one end of town to the other checking out the sights along the way including the hydro-electric plant, the ferry dock, the Pelican Pagoda and the old fish processing plant.  The library, open for 2 hours in the evenings and 3 hours Saturday afternoon, had free Wi-Fi available so we took advantage of that to check weather and e-mail. The town is in the process of refurbishing the ice making machinery in the fish processing plant so that they can supply fisherman with fresh, clean ice once salmon season starts.

Seabiscuit at the dock in Pelican Harbor.

The Pelican Library

The mountains on the other side of Lisianski Inlet.

It rained off and on all weekend so we worked on our engine room bilge cleaning project.  The goal is a clean, dry bilge.  In order to achieve this goal, we need to get the entire engine room bilge cleaned, degreased, primed and painted and then fix any leaks in the piping systems.  It’s a big job so we’ve created a sketch that delineates each area and we’re working on it section by section.  Dave worked in the starboard forward section under the Wesmar system and I worked in the port aft section under the gen-get home engine.  As part of the same project, we’re also cleaning the engine room deck plates and replacing the sound deadening strips underneath each plate.

The Pelican Pagoda, a memorial site.

A memorial to the town founder.  It says "Kalle (Charlie) Raatikainen, Pelican Town Founder 1938, ... and let there be no sorrow; for remember when the sun goes down, it returns with a bright tomorrow.  So, a toast to the past, A toast to the future... Barnacles off the hull!

Some of the memorials inside the Pelican Pagoda - we especially liked Bernice Kimpel's "So Many Men So Little Time"

April 15, Monday, Pelican to Elfin Cove (19 nm, 2.8 hours):  A short run today from Pelican up Lisianski Inlet to Elfin Cove.  The weather was nice with very little wind and only a slight swell in Cross Sound.  We left the Pelican dock at 7:15 and we were tied up at the public float in the Elfin Cove outer harbor at 10:00.  Elfin Cove is small community, mostly made up of fishing lodges.  During the winter there are ~20 resident caretakers but during the summer the population increases dramatically with the fishing lodge staff and guests.  Homes and business are built amongst the rocks and trees that line the outer harbor and the inner harbor and cove.  A winding boardwalk connects the community.   We took a walk along the boardwalk to the inner harbor and walked the docks.  On the way back, we talked to a fisherman setting up 100 fathom (600 feet) long lines to fish for black cod offshore.  He owns a fishing lodge in Elfin Cove but does some commercial fishing during the off season.  We had lunch, did a few chores then went for a walk to the head of the cove and back.  It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed the sunshine.

Elfin Cove Inner Harbor

B on the Elfin Cove Boardwalk along the entrance to the inner harbor.

Sunset over the mountains on the north side of Cross Sound. 
We are moored at the Elfin Cove Public Dock in the outer harbor.

April 16, Tuesday, Elfin Cove to Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay National Park (24 nm, 3 hours):  We left the dock at Elfin Cove at 8:00 to catch the flood tide flowing east into Cross Sound.  Our speed over ground (SOG) got up to over 10 knots as we cruised through South Inian Pass.  Lots of current swirling around and birds feeding in the currents and we spotted a harbor porpoise.  We rode the current up into Glacier Bay National Park and tied up at the dock in Bartlett Cove, the official park headquarters.  We walked up the dock and checked out the rules and regulations.  Since it is early in the season, most areas are open and you can stay overnight at the dock, which we did.  During the summer busy season there is a 3 hour limit at the dock and some of the areas in the park are closed to motorized vessels.  We had lunch on the boat while a rain squall moved through then went for a walk along the trails near the lodge and visitor center.  The lodge and visitor center aren’t open yet but there is a lot of activity -  training personnel and getting ready for the opening of the season.

The skeleton of Snow - a humpback whale hit by a cruise ship in Glacier Bay.

The interpretive sign explaining the story of Snow and
how the skeleton came to be placed near the Glacier Bay Visitor Center.

B taking a break during our walk on the Forest Trail.

Park personnel training in their survival suits on the Bartlett Cove dock.

April 17, Wednesday, Bartlett Cove to N. Sandy Cove (23 nm, 3.3 hours):  We started the day with a walk around the trails along the beach and through the woods.  Wi-Fi was available at the ranger stations so we sat at the picnic tables outside and checked the weather forecast and e-mails.  There was a USGS (U.S. Geological Survey) boat, Alaskan Gyre, at the dock getting ready to do some scientific studies of the sea otter population and their food resources in the park. We talked to the captain and got some information about anchoring locations here and up along the coast of the Gulf of Alaska.  

A Tlingit Long House and Totem Poles along the Tlingit Trail near the Glacier Bay Lodge and Visitor Center.

A carving of an eagle along the Forest Trail.

A pond along the Forest Trail.

We left the dock at 10:30 and motored up to N. Sandy Cove where we anchored.  We saw lots of sea otters along the way and some harbor porpoises in the cove.  Just before supper, Dave spotted a pair of wolves on the shoreline.  We watched them play for a while before they ran back up into the woods.  

April 18, Thursday, Round Trip N. Sandy Cove à Muir Inlet (56 nm, 7.9 hours):  Today we made a round trip voyage from N. Sandy Cove to the head of Muir Inlet and back.  The weather wasn’t very good - rain, wind and overcast skies - but the visibility was okay.  We rode up the inlet with the incoming tide.  At the junction of Adams Inlet, the water turned milky, turquoise blue.  As we approached McBride Glacier, a line of bergie bits covered ~3/4 of the width of the main channel.  We spotted a bear on the west shore.  We checked out the two arms of Riggs Glacier and then turned west towards Muir Glacier.  Steep granite cliffs with numerous waterfalls line the last portion of the inlet up to the glacier.  Muir Glacier has receded so much that it is no longer a tide water glacier and the face is a long ways from the end of the inlet.  We took some photos and then turned around and headed back south.  The wind had picked up significantly and was blowing a steady 30+ knots with gusts as high as 50 knots which created choppy seas.  We pulled into the protected waters of N. Sandy Cove about 15:30 and anchored up for the night.

A view of Muir Glacier from the stern.  You can see the path we took in the cloudy glacial water.

The steep granite cliffs covered with numerous waterfalls along Muir Inlet.

April 19, Friday, N. Sandy Cove @ anchor:  More wind and rain this morning and we decided to spend a day on the hook doing boat chores while we waited for the weather to move through.  We spent the morning working on our bilge cleaning project and the afternoon doing minor maintenance and cleaning.  We had to run the generator to charge our batteries so I turned on the oven and made a batch of fresh scones. 

The mountains surrounding N. Sandy Cove.

April 20, Saturday, N. Sandy Cove to Reid Inlet via Russell Island and Tarr Inlet (54 nm, 8.3 hours):  Fresh scones for breakfast.  We fired up the main engine at 8:30 and motored out of the anchorage.  There was a small halibut in the crab trap but no crabs.  We saw a moose along the shoreline of Puffin Island as we exited the cove.  

Moose on the shoreline as we exited N. Sandy Cove

We cruised north up into the west arm of Glacier Bay.  Today was a great wildlife day.  In addition to the moose, we saw lots of sea otters along the way, mountain goats on the steep rock faces south of Tidal Inlet, harbor porpoises and a humpback whale near Russell Island, a wolf on the shoreline just north of Russell Island, a trio of sea lions swimming up Tarr Inlet and lots of birds including bald eagles and oyster catchers sitting on top of bergie bits.  

Mountain goats on the steep granite cliffs (the white dots in the mist).

We motored up Tarr Inlet to the face of Margerie Glacier, one of the most spectacular tide-water glaciers in the park.  During the summer, this is the “destination glacier for many large cruise ships”, we were lucky enough to have it to ourselves.  We got within a ¼ nm, turned so that we were parallel to the glacier face, then cut the engine and listened to thundering booms of the cracking ice and watched as pieces crashed into the water below.  

The face of Margerie Glacier

Thousands of birds on the ice in front of Margerie Glacier 

Margerie Glacier.

 We turned south and headed back down Tarr Inlet, turned into Reid Inlet and anchored for the night.  There is a small glacier at the head of Reid Inlet, about 1 mile from where we anchored.  It no longer reaches the water line but we had a clear view of its snout.

Bergie bits in Tarr Inlet.

Birds perched on a bergie bit in Tarr Inlet.

April 21, Sunday, Reid Inlet to Blue Mouse Cove (27 nm, 4.5 hours):  We did a few boat chores before heaving anchor at 9:30 and heading north and west around the corner to look at some more glaciers.  We picked up the crab trap, a small halibut but no crabs.  

B pulling in the crab trap.

Lamplugh Glacier is near the entrance to John Hopkins Inlet.  It is not as large and impressive as Margerie Glacier, but does have a high steep face and you can see the bright blue of the ice where chunks near the shoreline have calved off.  We got close enough to see the underground river flowing out.  We motored a short ways up John Hopkins Inlet but turned around before getting into the area choked with floating ice.  We headed back south and anchored in Blue Mouse Cove for the evening.

Approaching Lamplugh Glacier.

Underground river opening in the Lamplugh Glacier.

Ice chunks on the shore in front of the Lamplugh Glacier.

April 22, Monday, Blue Mouse Cove to Tyndall Cove (22 nm, 3.2 hours):  Raining again this morning.  We had our coffee and breakfast, checked into the morning HAM net, then heaved anchor about 8:45.  Nothing in the crab trap today.  We cruised south then turned west into Geikie Inlet and cruised to the head of the inlet looking for wildlife.  After turning around and heading back east, we spotted a black bear on the shoreline just before we turned south into Tyndall Cove.  We watched him for a little while then proceeded to the head of the cove and anchored up.  The wind picked up and blew 25 – 30 knots for most of the afternoon.

April 23, Tuesday, Tyndall Cove to Bartlett Cove (30 nm, 4.2 hours):  It snowed overnight and we had a light dusting of snow on the decks this morning.  We heaved anchor at 8:00 and headed toward Bartlett Cove.  

Looking at Tyndall Cove from the stern as we leave the anchorage.

We took a short detour into Shag Cove to look for mountain goats on the steep cliffs of Marble Mountain but didn’t see any.  We had a few wind gusts up in the high 30s, cold air coming down off the mountains and some rain and snow along the way.  We pulled alongside the visitor dock in Bartlett Cove and tied up to the outside.  After lunch, we went for a walk on the trails near the visitor center.  When we got back down to the docks, the boat was jumping around on her lines.  It was like watching her bounce at the end of rubber bands.  The winds in the cove were in the 20+ knot range and there was a lot of wrap around swell coming in from the main channel, hitting the outside of the dock and our stern.  We walked up to the ranger station to ask if we could move over to the fuel dock out of the swell.  They gave us permission to move to the inside of the dock, where the Park Service boat usually moors.  We moved inside and what a difference.  There was no swell and our nose was into the wind so it was much more comfortable.  We spent the evening unlaxing, reading and doing puzzles.

April 24, Wednesday, Bartlett Cove to Hoonah (29 nm, 3.8 hours):  We woke up this morning to a winter wonderland.  It had snowed overnight and there was a fresh white blanket of snow covering the boat, the dock and the shoreline.

The bow and the Bartlett Cove dock covered in snow.

The Bartlett Cove shoreline.

Bird tracks in the snow on the docks.

We left the dock at 10:30 in order to catch the ebb tide out of Glacier Bay and the flood tide in Icy Strait for our journey to Hoonah.  A pod of Dall's porpoises rode along with us as we crossed Icy Strait.

Dall's porpoises playing in the bow wake in Icy Strait.

Dall's porpoises riding the bow wake.

We arrived in Hoonah, tied up at the transient dock in the harbor about 14:00 and got busy with town chores - laundry, grocery store, hardware store, etc.  For supper, we walked up to the Icy Strait Lodge.  We plan to stay here for three nights so that we can do some maintenance chores.

The Hoonah playground.

Until next time...