Touring the Balkans - Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia, Slovenia

 Location:  Herceg Novi, Montenegro

We finished up our pet sit in Germany mid-April and flew from Frankfurt to Dubrovnik, Croatia then transferred across the border into Herceg Novi, Montenegro.  We had a few days on our own before joining a Road Scholar trip called Best of the Balkans which included visits to the countries of Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia and Slovenia.  There is so much history here, from the Illyrians (ancient Greeks) to the Romans, Venetians, Ottomans, Austro-Hungarians, Yugoslavia, and now independent countries.

Looking down at old town of Dubrovnik, Croatia

April 17 - 22, 2024 - Herceg Novi, Montenegro:  Herceg Novi is a small town on the north side of the Boka Bay (Boka Kotorska also known as the Bay of Kotor).  We spent our first few days exploring Herceg Novi and the surrounding area on our own.

If you are interested, here is a link to a short YouTube video about Montenegro: Montenegro

The Boka Bay (also called the Bay of Kotor) and the towns surrounding the bay plus the Montenegro Riviera town of Budva.  The bay consists of two outer bays - the Bay of Herceg Novi and the Bay of Tivat, and two inner bays - the Bay of Risan and the Bay of Kotor.

Ruins of the Bastion Citadella, part of the southern fortification of the city of Herceg Novi.  The fort was originally built in the 15th century.  It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1979.

The view of Boka Bay from the Savina Winery in Herceg Novi, Montenegro

B walking down the hill from the Savina Winery in Herceg Novi where we did a wine/food tasting and a tour.  Everything in Herceg Novi is either up the hill or down the hill; it is known as the city of stairs. The wine was good and we bought some to take back to our hotel.

A statue of King Stefan Tvrtko on the Herceg Novi promenade.  He was the king of Bosnia, Dalmacia and Croatia from 1353 - 1391 and is credited with founding the city of Herceg Novi, Montenegro.

Forte Mare (Sea Fortress) in Herceg Novi, built in the 14th century.

We took a day trip to Tivat and Porto Montenegro, an old Yugoslav army military base that was transformed into a luxury yacht marina.

The shortest route from Herceg Novi to Tivat is via the ferry between Kamenari and Lepetani, which crosses the narrows between the outer and inner Boka Bays.

A small church near the shore in Tivat, Montenegro

The evening of Monday, April 22nd we met up with our guide, Srdjan, and the rest of our Road Scholar group for an overview of our trip plan and for a group supper at our hotel.

Tuesday, April 23, 2024, Herceg Novi, Montenegro:  We had a lecture about the history of Montenegro this morning, then went into old town Herceg Novi for a walking tour.  After a seafood lunch at a local restaurant, we took a boat tour of Boka Bay.

Kanli Kula (Bloody Tower) fortress in Herceg Novi.  It was built by the Turks in the 16th century.

The stairs and clock tower that lead to Belavista Square, Old Town, Herceg Novi, Montenegro

Saint Michael Archangel Church, Belavista Square, Old Town, Herceg Novi, Montenegro

Our group boarding the boat for our Boka Bay tour (photo credit to Rod H.)

As part of our boat tour, we entered an old tunnel built by the Yugoslav army to hide submarines and small ships from satellite and spy plane surveillance.  There are three tunnels, each 100 meters long and 10 meters deep.

Entering the submarine tunnel.  The entrance is disguised by plants and rocks.

Inside the submarine tunnel.

Wednesday, April 24, 2024 - Herceg Novi, Montenegro:  We started our day with a bus ride along the Boka Bay shoreline to the town of Perast.  Perast is a small fishing village founded by the Illyrians in the 14th century and expanded by the Venetians in the 15th century.  From Perast we took a boat to Our Lady of the Rocks, a small man made island with a church.  The legend  is that the island was built over the centuries by seaman who placed a rock in the bay after each return from a succesful voyage.  You can read more about the legend, the church and the museum here.

Looking from the shoreline in Perast out into Kotor Bay.  The cruise ship on the left is heading towards the town of Kotor.  The island in the middle is the Island of Saint George, a natural island and home to a Catholic Monastery.  The island on the right is Our Lady of the Rocks.

Our group waiting to go inside the church on Our Lady of the Rocks

The door of the church on Our Lady of the Rocks

Our group inside the church on Our Lady of the Rocks

Back ashore, we rode the bus into Kotor for a tour of the old walled city and the maritime museum (we were asked not to touch anything in the museum because the president of Montenegro was expected to be visiting after we left).

The Kotor city walls along the Scurda River

The main square in Old Town Kotor after entering through the Sea Gate.

St. Tryphon's Cathedral in Kotor (photo credit to Jim D.)

Delicious mussels for our lunch.  They grow them in Kotor Bay.

One of the squares inside the walled city is a cat sanctuary

Looking up at the Chapel and the walls above the old town.

Thursday, April 25, 2024 - Herceg Novi, Montenegro to Dubrovnik, Croatia:  This morning we drove across the border into Dubrovnik, Croatia.  After stopping at a scenic overlook, we drove down to the old town for a walking tour and a visit to several museums.  We had lunch at a small restaurant, then took a boat out to Lokrum Island, a nature preserve, for an afternoon of hiking.

If you are interested, here is a link to a short YouTube video about Croatia: Croatia

A quiet residential street inside the walls of old town Dubrovnik, Croatia

Inside the Franciscan Monastery museum, Dubrovnik, Croatia

The main street inside the walls of old town, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Entering the bay on the south side of Lokrum Island

A peacock at the cafe on Lokrum Island.

A view of Dubrovnik from Lokrum Island

Friday, April 26, 2024 - Dubrovnik to Split, Croatia:  We left Dubrovnik this morning and drove north along the coast of the Adriatic Sea.  We made a few stops along the way to look at the Peljesac Bridge, to tour the town of Omis and to take a boat ride up the River Cetina.

The Peljesac Bridge crosses Bosnia-Herzegovina's access to the Adriatic Sea near Neum, just north of Dubrovnik.  Until the opening of this bridge in July 2022, there was no way to get from the northern part of Croatia to its southern Adriatic coast without crossing into and out of Bosnia-Herzegovina.  Bosnia's access to the sea dates back to the 17th century when "the city fathers of Dubrovnik, alarmed by Venetian territorial expansion along the Dalmatian coast, decided to relinquish a tiny coastal strip at Neum to Bosnia (then a province of the Ottoman Empire) in order to shield Dubrovnik from Venetian attack. The calculation was that Venetian forces would not dare to risk war with the powerful Ottoman Empire by crossing Ottoman territory, merely in order to take land from Dubrovnik. The city itself, with its powerful ramparts, was felt to be safe from attack."  Here is a link to an article in Al Jazeera published shortly after the bridge was opened Peljesac Bridge Opening.

Our group on a short walking tour in Omis, Croatia.

Kids having ice cream in the town of Omis, Croatia.

We took a boat ride up the River Cetina to have lunch.  This is our boat docking in Omis so that we can get on board.

The fortress above the town of Omis, Croatia

Fishing shacks along the bank of the River Cetina near Omis, Croatia

Our group having lunch at the Restaurant Kastil Slanica on the River Cetina near Omis, Croatia

After our lunch break, we continued up the coast to Split.  We stopped for a tour at the Mestrovic Gallery (Ivan Mestrovic is Croatia's most well known artist/sculptor) then made our way to our hotel in Solin, on the outskirts of Split.  

Ivan Mestrovic's sculpture Job, inside the Mestrovic Gallery, Split, Croatia

Sculptures in the garden at the Mestrovic Gallery, Split, Croatia

The front entrance of the Mestrovic Gallery, Split, Croatia

Saturday, April 27, 2024 - Split, Croatia:  We spent the morning touring Diocletian's Palace and the old town/marina area of Split.  Diocletian was a Roman emperor at the end of the 3rd century AD.  The "palace" included a residential area for Diocletian when he retired but also housed military regiments.  Today it is a UNESCO site and includes local residences, hotels, restaurants, shops, a church and a bell tower.

The outer walls on the south side (sea side) of Diocletian's Palace

Inside the cellars of Diocletion's palace

A relief map showing the coast line of the Adriatic Sea near Split and the surrounding mountains.  The blue line is the water source that came from the mountains to Diocletian's Palace on the south shore (#2) and also to the town of Solin (#1)

An acapella group performing in one of the vestibules inside Diocletian's Palace.  The acoustics were amazing.

Inside the Cathedral of Saint Domnius.  This cathedral was originally built as the Mausoleum of Diocletian (305 AD).  It became the catholic cathedral in the 7th century.  Diocletian was part of a major persecution of Christians in the late 3rd and earlier 4th centuries so there is a bit of irony that his mausoleum is now a catholic cathedral.

The Bell Tower inside the palace.  This tower was added to the cathedral in the 12th century.

We had the afternoon free to explore on our own so we hiked up to the scenic overlook on Marjan Hill.
B, Dave and Ernie

Sunset outside our hotel in Solin, a suburb north of Split

Sunday, April 28, 2024 - Split, Croatia to Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina:  We left Split this morning and drove southeast towards Bosnia-Herzegovina.  We arrived in the town of Mostar, located on the Neretva River, late morning for a tour and lunch.  Our first stop was a visit to Kajtaz house, an original Turkish house built in the 16th century.

If you are interested here is a link to a short video on YouTube about Bosnia-Herzegovina: Bosnia and Herzegovina

Looking down at the stone courtyard, Kajtaz House, Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Listening to our tour guide while sitting in the main room upstairs at Kajtaz House, Mostar

 From Kajtaz House, we strolled the cobblestone streets in the old town of Mostar.

The mosque in old town Mostar

Looking down river at the Stari Most Bridge.  Stari Most means "old bridge" and the bridge keepers were known as Mostari.  The bridge was originally built by the Ottomans in the 16th century.  It was destroyed during the Bosnian war in 1993 and was rebuilt in 2004.

Our group crossing the Stari Most (photo credit to Rod. H)

Looking up river from the Stari Most Bridge 

The Stari Most from the west side of the Neretva River.

We had lunch at a cafe on the west side of the Neretva River and Beverly managed to get a video of someone jumping off the Stari Most.

After lunch, we got back on the bus for the drive to Sarajevo.  When we arived, Srjdan took us on a short walking tour through the old town.

Srdjan, our guide, and Ivan, our bus driver, treated all of us to a taste of the local herbal liquor.

B and Dave enjoying the local liquor on the bus ride from Mostar to Sarajevo.

Entering Sarajevo as we cross the River Miljacka

Sacred Heart Catholic Cathedral, Sarajevo

Orthodox Church of the Nativity in Sarajevo

The old walls of the Taslihan, an old stone inn built in 1543, with the minaret from the Bascarsija Mosque in the background.  

Monday, April 29, 2024 - Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina:  For me, Sarajevo was one of the most interesting cities that we visited on this trip.  My memory of Sarajevo is as the host of the 1984 winter olympics while it was still part of Yugoslavia.  The history of the city, from its establishment during the Ottoman Empire until today, is fascinating.  Here is a brief timeline:  

• The city was established as part of the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century and remained under their rule for over 400 years.  
• In 1878, Bosnia-Herzegovina including Sarajevo, was occupied by the Austro-Hungarians, who quickly industrialized and modernized the city.  There is a marker laid across Ferhadija Street called "Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures" where the area developed by the Ottoman's, east of the marker, joins with the area developed by the Austro-Hungarians, west of the marker.  
• In 1914, the Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated in Sarajevo triggering the start of World War I.  
• Between World War I and World War II, Sarajevo became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.  
• Sarajevo was occupied by Italian and German forces during WWII.  
• After WWII, Sarejevo became the capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina within the republic of Yugoslavia.  
• During the Bosnian war, following the break up of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, Sarajevo was blockaded by the Yugoslavian Army/Serbian Army from April 1992 to February 1996, 1425 days (The Siege of Sarajevo).  
• Today Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina, an independent country.

This morning, we took a tour of the Sarajevo Tunnel, also known as the Peace Tunnel, the Tunnel of Salvation and the Tunnel of Hope.  The tunnel was constructed in 1993, during the siege of Sarajevo, to link the city of Sarajevo with an area on the other side of the airport controlled by the United Nations.  

Our tour guide was a war baby, born in 1994, and she had plenty of stories about her parents', aunts' and uncles' involvement in the war which made everything come to life.

Our guide, Emina, showing us the entrance to the tunnel.  The holes in the wall are from artillery fire.  The tunnel was never discovered by the enemy forces.

A mock-up of the entrance to the Tunnel

A map depicting the Seige of Sarajevo

Part of the tunnel has been refurbished so that visitors can walk through it and get an idea of how it operated.

After our tour of the Tunnel Museum, we went back to the downtown area for a walking tour.

Our tour group in front of the Sarajevo City Hall

The Inat Kuca House (Spite House).  Read the story here Inat Kuca house

The Latin Bridge across the River Miljacka.  The Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated near the far side of this bridge.

Our guide explaining the assassination of the Archduke in 1914.  There are photos from the Archduke's visit to Sarajevo and his murder on the museum walls across the street.

The ruins of the walls from the Taslihan (Inn of Stone) that was originally built in 1543

The entrance to the Bascarsija Mosque in Sarajevo

We had the rest of the afternoon to explore the city on our own.  The group met up again for supper at Pod Lipom, a local restaurant, where we got to sample typical Bosnian cuisine (Bill Clinton dined here in 2002 when he was visiting Sarajevo).

Tuesday, April 30, 2024 - Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina to Belgrade, Serbia:  Sarajevo is located in a valley surrounded on all sides by mountains.  This morning, we drove northeast through the mountains then along the Drina River and across the border into Serbia.  We stopped in a small town for lunch along the way and arrived in Belgrade ~16:00.  

If you are interested, here is a link to a short YouTube video about Serbia  Serbia

We checked in to our hotel, then strolled to the Nikola Tesla Museum.  After watching a short film about Tesla and his inventions, our guide showed us some of Tesla's creations including a remote control boat and the Tesla coil, used to produce high-voltage, low current, high-frequency alternating current electricity.

Tesla's remote controlled boat from 1898, Nikola Tesla Museum, Belgrade, Serbia

Tesla Coil inside the Nikola Tesla Museum, Belgrade, Serbia

A short video showing how the energy produced by the Tesla Coil lights up the flourescent bulbs we are holding.

House of the National Assembly of the Republic of Serbia (State Parliament building), Belgrade, Serbia

Wednesday, May 1, 2024 - Belgrade, Serbia:  Today was our day for touring the city of Belgrade.  Our first stop was the Serbian Orthodox Church of Saint Sava.  Construction of the church started in 1935, but stopped when Yugoslavia was occupied during World War II.  Construction started again in 1984 and the dome was installed in 1989 but the interior remained unfinished.  In 2019, Vladimir Putin visited the church and pledged that Russia would provide the funding to complete the mosiacs and remaining interior work.

The entrance of the Church of Saint Sava, Belgrade, Serbia

The interior of the Church of Saint Sava, Belgrade, Serbia

The Crypt below the main floor in the Church of Saint Sava, Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade was the capital of Yugoslavia and is now home to the Museum of Yugoslavia, which chronicles the history of Yugoslavia from the time it was established as a kingdom (1918) until the break up of the socialist republic in the early 1990s.  It also includes the history and tomb of Josip Broz "Tito", the prime minister/president of Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia 1944 until his death in 1980.  The history of Tito is very interesting, read more about it here Tito.  The people of Yugoslavia either loved him because he was a charismatic leader and brought prosperity to the region or hated him because people who didn't agree with his philosophies and methods disappeared.

A statue of Tito at the Museum of Yugoslavia complex.

Our group filing into the Museum of Yugoslavia.

After our museum visit, we went to the Kalemegdan Park and the Belgrade Fortress.  The fortress, located near the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers, dates back to the 3rd century.

The military museum at Kalemegdan Park.

The clock tower near the Stambol Gate entrance to the Belgrade Fortress

Military weapons on display at the Belgrade Fortress

We had the rest of the day to explore on our own.  The group met up again for supper at a local restaurant, Tri Sesira (Three Hats).

In addition to the delicious local Serbian food at Tri Sesira (Three Hats) Restaurant, we were entertained by some local musicians.

Thursday, May 2, 2024 - Belgrade, Serbia to Novi Sad, Serbia:  We packed our bags this morning and boarded the bus for a short drive to Sremski Karlovci, a small town on the banks of the Danube River.  We toured the town, the seminary school and the Orthodox Church, then walked to a local house for a lecture and lunch in their wine cellar.

Entering the town of Sremski Karlovci, Serbia

The seminary school in Sremski Karlovci, Serbia

The high school in Sremski Karlovci.  Locally it is called the gymnasium.

Listening to our lecturer inside the wine cellar

Our group sitting down for lunch in a wine cellar, Sremski Karlovci, Serbia

After lunch, we walked to a museum of beekeeping and a wine cellar.  

The sign outside the Museum of Beekeeping and the wine cellar

An old-fashioned centrifuge used to remove honey from the honeycombs.

A display of the beehives and equipment used to process the honey.

Wine and honey tasting in Sremski Karlovci, Serbia.  We got to try 7 different wines and 3 types of honey.

Back on the bus, we drove to the town of Novi Sad, Serbia, our final destination of the day.  Our guide, Srdjan, is from Novi Sad.  He took us on a walking tour of the town and we got to meet his wife and daughter.

The Jewish Synagogue in Novi Sad, Serbia

The Name of Mary Catholic Church in Novi Sad, Serbia

The monument of Svetozar Miletic, a former politician of Novi Sad, Serbia.  The building is City Hall.

The Bishop's Palace, Novi Sad, Serbia

Srdjan, our tour guide, giving us a walking tour of Novi Sad with his daughter on his shoulders.

There was a monthly outdoor market the night we were in Novi Sad.  This guy was selling cooked sausages. 

A mural in Novi Sad, Serbia

Friday, May 3, 2024 - Novi Sad, Serbia to Zagreb, Croatia:  This morning we drove from Novi Sad across the border into Croatia.  We stopped in the town of Ilok for a short walking tour near the Danube River, then toured a winery, tasted some wine and ate lunch.

The entrance to the Catholic Church of St. John Capistrano, Ilok, Croatia

The view of the Danube River, Ilok, Croatia

The entrance to the winery, restaurant, hotel at Ilocki Podrumi, Ilok, Croatia

The wine cellar at Iloki Podrumi, Ilok, Croatia

Our group wine tasting at Iloki Podrumi, Ilok, Croatia

Our next stop was the Lippizaner stud farm / training arena in the town of Djakovo followed by a tour of the cathedral in the town square.

A white Lippizaner horse.  They come in three colors white, gray and brown.  We toured the stud farm in the afternoon.  All of the horses had finished their training / exercise for the day and were in their stables resting and eating so we didn't get to see them in action.

A grey lippizaner horse

The resident cat, Natasha, at the Lippizaner training arena in Djakovo.  She sat with us during the lecture in the arena then followed us while we toured the stables.

The Cathedral of St. Peter, Djakovo, Croatia

Inside the Cathedral of St. Peter, Djakovo, Croatia

From Djakovo, we drove into Zagreb, checked into our hotel and had a casual supper at a local restaurant.

Saturday, May 4, 2024 - Zagreb, Croatia:  We started the morning with a lecture about the process of Croatia joining the European Union (EU) which was very interesting.  Next was a guided walking tour of Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.  After lunch, we had the afternoon to explore on our own.

Our local guide at the entrance to the funicular, Zagreb, Croatia.

A view from the top of the funicular, Zagreb, Croatia.

The church of St. Mark in St. Mark's square, Zagreb, Croatia

A statue of St. George slaying a dragon in the old town area of Zagreb, Croatia.  The dragon looked more like a catfish than a dragon.

The vegetable section of the Saturday outdoor market, Zagreb, Croatia.

The flower section of the Saturday Market, Zagreb, Croatia

Looking out at the Cathedral steeples (covered with scaffolding as they are being restored) and the steeple of an Orthodox church, Zagreb, Croatia

The Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb, Croatia.  People donate items and narratives about their relationships that have ended.  The museum sounds goofy, but it was a great way to spend an afternoon, looking at the things people saved after a relationship broke up and the stories they had to tell about them.  

Chocolate bars for sale at the Museum of Broken Relationships - notice the name of the middle one.

Sunday, May 5, 2024 - Zagreb, Croatia to Ljubljana, Slovenia:  Onto the bus this morning for the drive from Zagreb to Ljubljana, Slovenia, our last bus ride for this trip.  We stopped for a break at a small castle/inn along the River Krka in Otocec, had lunch in Radovljica then drove up through the mountains to Lake Bled.

An aerial view and description/history of Otocec Castle

Otocec Castle on the Krka River near Otocec, Slovenia

Downtown Radovljica, Slovenia where we stopped for our lunch break

The view of the valley below our lunch restaurant, Radovljica, Slovenia

The view of the island in Lake Bled from the Blejski Grad (Lake Bled Castle)

A luge/sledding track at Lake Bled

There was an accordion competition at Lake Bled while we were there.

A swimming area on the shore of Lake Bled, Slovenia

Looking up at Blejski Grad (Lake Bled Castle)

From Lake Bled, we drove into Ljubljana.  After checking into our hotel, we took a short walk around town followed by a lecture about the country of Slovenia.

If you are interested, here is a link to a short YouTube video about Slovenia Slovenia.

A dragon on the Dragon Bridge that crosses the Ljubljanica River, downtown Ljubljana, Slovenia

Monday, May 6, 2024 - Ljubljana, Slovenia:  This morning we took a walking tour of Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, then had the afternoon to explore on our own.  We visited the castle above the town and wandered the city streets.  Most of the downtown area along the river is a pedestrian area so it is easy to walk around and explore without worrying about traffic.  

The Vurnikova Hisa (Cooperative Business Bank Building), designed in 1921 by Ivan and Helena Vurnik in the Slovene "national style" 

The Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, built in the 17th Century

The statue of France Preseren, a famous Slovenian Poet 

Looking up at the castle above the town of Ljubljana, Slovenia

A fountain in the pedestrian area along the River Ljubljanica, Ljubljana, Slovenia

The door into Saint Nicholas Cathedral, Ljubljana, Slovenia

The view of Ljubljana from the castle

The courtyard at the castle above Ljubljana, Slovenia

Today was our last day touring with the group.  We enjoyed a farewell supper at a local restaurant and said our goodbyes.

Tuesday, May 7, 2024 - Ljubljana, Slovenia:  Most of our groups had flights out this morning or were taking the train or bus to their next travel destination.  We stayed an extra day in Ljubljana, explored some more of the city, did laundry and sampled some of the local food and wine.

Local dumplings plus sausage and buckwheat for lunch at Moji-struklji, a restaurant on the River Ljubljanica, Ljubljana, Slovenia.  The dumplings come in various flavors, some sweet and some savory.  We tried the tarragon and the asparagus, both very good.

Wednesday, May 8, 2024 - Ljubljana, Slovenia to Zagreb, Croatia:  Today we rode the bus from Ljubljana to Zagreb.

Dave waiting for the bus in Ljubljana, Slovenia

Lunch at the bus station in Zagreb, Croatia

Thursday, May 9, 2024 - Zagreb to Split, Croatia:  Today we rode the bus from Zagreb to Split, Croatia.  Lots of windy roads through the mountains with numerous hairpins turns and switchbacks.  The bus driver smoked the brakes a few times on some of the descents and we were happy to get off when we arrived in Split.  We checked into a small apartment near the waterfront and ate supper at a nearby restaurant.

Sunset in Split, Croatia

Friday, May 10, 2024 - Split, Croatia:  We had the day to do whatever we wanted so we hiked up Marjan Hill and through the park, then wandered around inside Diocletian's Palace.

Looking towards Diocletian's Palace from the ferry dock, Split, Croatia

Church of St. Nicholas in Marjan Park, Split, Croatia

The view from one of the trails in Marjan Park, Split, Croatia

Saturday, May 11, 2024 - Split, Croatia:  Today we boarded the MS Adris for a 7 day cruise of the Croatian Islands, from Split to Dubrovnik.  Built in 2018, the MS Adris is a 165 foot small cruise ship with 19 double cabins for a total of 38 passengers.  After checking in with our cruise director Martina, we went on a walking tour of Diocletian's Palace.  Although we had a different tour guide, most of the sights we saw and the stories we heard were similar to our previous tour.  After our tour, we had supper on board the ship and got to meet the captain and crew and some of the other passengers.

One of the narrow residential streets inside Diocletian's Palace, Split, Croatia

The bell tower inside Diocletian's Palace, Split, Croatia

Sunday, May 12, 2024 - Split to Trogir, Croatia:  We left the dock in Split early this morning and cruised towards Trogir.  Mid-morning, we stopped in a cove and anchored up so that people could swim.  Some did but too cold for us.  We sat on deck and read our books and played cards with Janet and Heather from the Seattle area.  After lunch, we heaved anchor and cruised into the port in Trogir.  We had the rest of the afternoon and evening to explore on our own.

The view of the shoreline as we cruise out of Split, Croatia

The view of the islands as we cruise out of Split, Croatia

The view of the shoreline from our swim anchorage

The Kamerlengo Castle, built in the 15th Century, Trogir, Croatia

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo bell tower in old town Trogir, Croatia

The MS Adris at the dock in Trogir, Croatia

Monday, May 13, 2024 - Trogir to Vis, Croatia:  The wind was scheduled to pick up later this week, so the captain altered our route.  Instead of going to Hvar, we cruised to the island of Vis.  On the way, Martina lectured about the history of Croatia (yesterday she lectured about Croatian food).  We were scheduled for a stop to visit to the Blue Cave, but because of the wind and the tide, we weren't sure if we would be able to enter.  The captain increased his speed and we arrived in time to go inside the cave before the sea got too rough.  

The Blue Cave is located on the east side of the island of Bisevo and about 5 km southwest from the island of Vis.  We entered the cave through a small opening in the rock that had been dynamited to make it big enough for small boats to enter.  Once inside, the cave opens up into a large cavern.  The sunlight reflects through the water to the white sand on the bottom of the sea and then back into the cave, creating the blue light.

Marcia, B and Don on the small boat headed away from the MS Adris to the Blue Cave

Approaching the entrance to the  Blue Cave (the small opening in the center of the photo).

Our boat entering the Blue Cave, Bisevo Island, Croatia.  There was enough room inside the cave for 4 small boats (12 persons per boat)

Inside the Blue Cave, Bisevo Island, Croatia

Our boat driver using his boat hook to move us around inside the Blue Cave

Inside the Blue Cave, Bisevo Island, Croatia

We were only inside the Blue Cave for about 15 minutes, then our small boats dropped us off at the Adris which was waiting for us just outside the entrance to the cave.  We cruised to a nearby anchorage for lunch and a swim stop, then into the harbor on the island of Vis.  We spent the evening hiking on the island and exploring the town.

Welcome to the island of Vis

The church of St. Jerome, Vis Island, Croatia

Tuesday, May 14, 2024 - Vis to Stari Grad, Hvar Island, Croatia:  We left Vis this morning at 7:00 and cruised east between the islands of Brac and Hvar to view the Golden Horn Beach on the south side of Brac Island, one of the few sand beaches on the east side of the Adriatic Sea.  As we got closer to Stari Grad, we anchored up in a cove for a swim stop followed by lunch.

 

A few brave souls in the water at our swim stop

Early afternoon, we cruised into the harbor at Stari Grad, on the north side of Hvar Island.  We hopped on a bus and went to taste wine at the Caric Winery in Vrboska, then drove into the town of Hvar to do some exploring.  Early evening, we returned to Stari Grad and ate supper at a local restaurant.

Our group ready for wine tasting at the Caric Winery, Vrboska, Hvar Island, Croatia

The entrance to the Caric Winery, Vrboska, Hvar Island, Croatia

The view of Hvar town and the Adriatic Sea from the Spanish Fortress.  The bus dropped us off at the top of the hill and we walked down the trail and stairs to Hvar town.

The Hvar Spanish Fortress above the town of Hvar, Hvar Island, Croatia

St. Stephens Cathedral, Hvar, Hvar Island, Croatia

Sunset at Stari Grad, Hvar Island, Croatia

Wednesday, May 15, 2024 - Stari Grad, Hvar Island to Slano, Croatia:  We pulled away from the dock after breakfast this morning.  Our plan was to cruise to the island of Korcula for a guided tour of the town and a special Croatian Peka supper.  During lunch, Martina and the captain informed us that the weather was getting worse and that we would be skipping the island of Korcula.  Instead we cruised to the small town of Slano on the mainland.  It took most of the day to get to Slano so we read our books, played cards and did some unlaxing.  We tied up at the dock ~19:00 and went for a short walk around the town, then ate dinner aboard the boat.

Cruising out of the Stari Grad harbor, Hvar Island, Croatia

The mainland coastline as we cruise towards Slano, Croatia

Church of St. Blaise, Slano, Croatia

A view of the town of Slano and the sunset from the Rector's Palace Slano, Croatia (photo credit to Carrie and Jack)

Sunset Slano, Croatia

Thursday, May 16, 2024 - Slano, Croatia:  A bus picked us up at the dock this morning and took us to the small town of Mali Ston.  We boarded a small boat there and cruised to a floating cabana where we sampled the local oysters and mussels.  We cruised back to the boat dock and a had a seafood lunch in a local restaurant.  After lunch, the bus took us to Ston where we had a tour of the salt works and the afternoon to explore on our own.

The floating cabanas in the middle of the oyster and mussel farms, Mali Ston, Croatia

Oyster and mussel nets raised out of the water so that we could see how they are farmed

The boat that took us out to the oyster farm, Mali Ston, Croatia

The salt works in Ston, Croatia

The town of Ston and the fortified walls above the village.  We thought about climbing the walls, but Heather and Janet had their cards with them, so we had a cold drink and played cards instead.

Tonight was the captain's supper on the boat and we were treated to a delicious meal and a live band.

The band performing at the captain's supper aboard the MS Adris.  In addition to a few Croatian folk songs, they played music from each of the countries represented on the cruise, USA, UK, Canada and Australia, some popular music that we could sing along with and some dance tunes.

Friday, May 17, 2024 - Slano to Dubrovnik, Croatia:  We had a leisurely morning then left the dock in Slano and cruised south along the coast to Dubrovnik.  We docked "under the bridge" on the north side of the city in the neighborhood of Gruz, near the cruise ship docking area and the bus stop.  This afternoon we had a tour of the old town of Dubrovnik and some free time to explore on our own (we had a cold drink and played cards).  It was our last night with the group on the cruise and a few of us went out for Peka, a traditional Croatian method of slow cooking meat under a "bell".

The 14th century fortress and walls surrounding old town Dubrovnik, Croatia

Looking down from the Jesuit Stairs in old town Dubrovnik, Croatia.  If you have watched Game of Thrones, this is where the walk of shame was filmed

The restaurant in the mountains above Dubrovnik where we had our Peka supper

Our meal started with a charchuterie plate, bread and plenty of wine, followed by salad

Lamb, veal and potatoes cooked using the traditional Croatian Peka method.

The group at the Peka supper.
Left side:  Joanne, Jack, Carrie, Heather, Janet; Right side: Rodney, Chris, Triona, B, Dave

Saturday, May 18, 2024 - Dubrovnik, Croatia to Herceg Novi, Montenegro:  After breakfast aboard the Adris, everyone disembarked and went their own way.  Some spent a few extra days in Dubrovnik, some went home, and some went to tour other parts of Europe.  We walked to the bus station and rode the bus across the border into Montenegro.  

Sunday, May 19, 2024 - present:  We are staying in a small apartment in the town of Herceg Novi, exploring the local area and doing some day trips.  We even met up with Heather and Janet near Kotor for lunch and some card playing.  

Janet, Heather, Dave and B playing cards near Kotor, Montenegro.  Janet and Heathery caught the bus back to Dubrovnik later that afternoon.  They were headed to Ireland and then Iceland before returning home.

Until next time...