Thursday, August 24, 2017

Haida Gwaii (Patti and Al's Summer Vacation)

Location:  Shearwater, BC

Since the last blog in Prince Rupert, we crossed the Hecate Strait to and from Haida Gwaii, rented a car and toured Graham Island –Haida Gwaii’s north island, visited Gwaii Haanas and its Haida Heritage sites, circumnavigated Moresby Island – Haida Gwaii’s south island, and we are now working our way south back to Victoria (the map is at the end of the blog).

Monday, July 31st, Prince Rupert to Larsen Harbour:  We left Prince Rupert about 8:15 Monday morning and cruised to Larsen Harbour on the north shore of Banks Island.  The voyage was calm and enjoyable.  We saw dolphins and whales and a lot of birds including the rhinoceros auklet, plus some deer on the shore of an island.  We arrived at Larsen Harbour about 14:00 and anchored in the middle of the channel leading to the shallow basin at the head.  We did a few chores and some reading.  A fishing boat and a sail boat came in and anchored in the basin.  After supper, we watched four sea otters playing near the harbor entrance.

Sunrise as we are leaving Larsen Harbour
Tuesday, August 1st, Larsen Harbour to Sandspit, Moresby Island (Haida Gwaii’s south island):  We left the anchorage about 6:00 to make our crossing of Hecate Strait to Haida Gwaii.  There was a little chop and the wind was blowing 15 – 20 knots but the sky was clear and the winds were predicted to get lighter on the western side of the strait.  We made the journey with no issues.  We saw a few fishing boats working their crab traps but other than that no other boats.  We pulled into Sandspit Marina and side tied to the long dock near the breakwater.  Ginger and Gary (LivLife) were tied up at the dock in front of us and had just finished their cruise of Gwaii Haanas.  We stopped by their boat for happy hour and they shared some stories and gave us ideas for anchoring and touring the islands.  For supper, we walked into Sandspit and ate at the Chinese Restaurant “Dick’s Wok In”.  Dick has been in Sandspit for 37 years and fishes down at the marina every day.  Very good food and service.  As we walked back to the boat, we saw lots of bald eagles in the trees along the shoreline plus some deer. 

Bald eagle on the Sandspit Marina breakwater
Wednesday, August 2nd, Sandspit:  We spent most of the day Wednesday cleaning and doing boat chores and preparing for the arrival of Patti and Al.  They left Boston today and are spending the night in Vancouver and then catching tomorrow morning’s flight from Vancouver to Sandspit.  The weather couldn’t be better, high 60s/low 70s and sunshine.  We heard a few people say that summer has finally arrived.

Thursday, August 3rd, Sandspit to Queen Charlotte, Graham Island (Haida Gwaii’s north island):  Al and Patti arrived at the marina about 11:00.  There is typically no transportation available from the airport to the marina, but Kelly, the harbourmaster, arranged for Chad, from Sandspit Adventures, to pick them up.  They hopped on board the boat and we left the marina to cruise to Queen Charlotte, across Skidegate Inlet, on the south shore of Graham Island.  The Queen Charlotte marina was almost full but Dani, the harbourmaster, fit us in.  The weather forecast was for winds to blow 30 – 40 knots Thursday afternoon and Friday so we decided to rent a car and tour Graham Island.  Thursday afternoon we drove north through Skidegate and Tlell to Port Clements.  We visited the museum and the gift shop and looked at the golden spruce sapling planted nearby.  From there, we took the gravel logging roads around the island interior to look for wildlife.  We saw one deer and one squirrel and we got a flat tire about 10 miles outside of Queen Charlotte.  The logging roads aren’t used much, but our spare was good, we had all the tools and Dave and Al had us going again in no time.  We made it back to town safely.  For supper, we went to the Chinese restaurant near the marina and shared the “Dinner for 4” which was very tasty.

Dave, Al and Patti changing our flat tire
Friday, August 4th, Queen Charlotte:  We dropped Al and Patti off at the Haida Heritage Center in Skidegate for their Gwaii Haanas orientation and then Dave and I went to get our tire repaired.  The Heritage Center is home of the Haida Gwaii museum and includes a replica of a long house, a diorama of an old Haida village along a beach and many totem poles.  It also includes a carving shed where they are in the process of carving a new totem pole to place in front of the renovated hospital in Queen Charlotte. 

Patti and B standing in front of a legacy pole at the Haida Heritage Center in Skidegate

We picked up the repaired tire and then met Patti and Al back at the Heritage Center.  From there we headed north to Masset, on the north shore of Graham Island.  We did a little shopping, had lunch at Bud’s, a 50s style diner, and bought a few goodies at the farmer’s market.  Our next stop was Sarah’s, a Haida art store, in Old Masset. 

Sarah's Haida Art Store in Old Masset
Further north we stopped at Tow Hill, the south end of the sandy beach that extends to Rose Spit, and walked the trail through the woods to the Blow Hole.  On our way back south, we stopped at the Agate Beach campground and walked along the rock beach collecting agates. 

The Blow Hole on the north coast of Graham Island.

Patti and Al on the trail through the woods between the Blow Hole and Tow Hill.

For supper, we dined with the Kings.  The Kings used to run the Queen Charlotte newspaper.  They retired several years ago but got bored so now, during the summers, they open up their home four nights a week and host suppers for about 20 people.  We were greeted with a glass of bubbly and drank that while sitting on the deck overlooking Skidegate Inlet.  Next, an assortment of appetizers followed by the main course of either salmon or lamb, then pistachio/raspberry semi-freddo for dessert.  It was all delicious and a fun way to spend the evening.

Saturday, August 5th, Queen Charlotte to Gordon Cove:  We picked up a few groceries Saturday morning, turned in our rental car and left the Queen Charlotte dock about 10:30.  The weather was beautiful, calm and clear with very little wind so Al and Patti rode up on the bow to soak in the sunshine. 

View looking west as we leave Queen Charlotte


Patti and Al sitting on the bow enjoying the sunshine.
Our anchor location for the night was Gordon Cove on the south side of the head of Gillatt Arm.  On our way into the anchorage, we dropped off the prawn trap in about 270 feet of water just north of Oliver Island and dropped off the crab trap near the entrance to Gordon Cove.  We anchored in about 35 feet of water in the middle of the cove at 17:45 with no other boats.  For happy hour, we did a beer tasting up on Monkey Island.  Dave and Al both liked the IPA the best and Patti liked the Pale Ale.

Sunday, August 6th, Gordon Cove to Rockfish Harbour, via Louise Narrows and Skedans:  We started the day watching a raccoon working the clam flats ashore.  We heaved anchor at 9:00 to catch the rising tide in Louise Narrows.  The crab trap had a nice big Dungeness crab in it and the prawn trap had 22 prawns so a good haul.  Louise Narrows is a small passage between the west side of Louise Island and Moresby Island.  It is short and picturesque, but shallow (we saw less than 2 feet below the keel in several places) and narrow (down to 30 feet wide at one point) with limited visibility and nowhere to pass another boat, nor to turn around.   We announced our intentions to transit the narrows on the VHF radio, then started through.  The water was clear and the bottom was easily visible. 

Entering Louise Narrows

Transiting Louise Narrows
We emerged out of the south end just as a small speed boat was entering.  We made our way around Louise Island to Skedans on the northeast corner.  Skedans (K’uuna Llnagaay – at the edge village) is the northernmost Haida Gwaii Watchmen Village Site.  As per the visitor guide “At its height, the village had between 26 to 30 longhouses.  In the late 1800s, more than 50 pieces of monumental sculpture were recorded… including 22 frontal poles, 18 single mortuary poles, 3 double mortuary poles, 5 memorial poles, and 5 mortuary figures.” 

Remains of an ancient pole at Skedans
Our guide, DeeDee, led us through the remains of the village which include a few memorial and mortuary poles and the depressions and roof beams of several long houses.  Her grandfather was the hereditary chief of the village and she shared stories of the wisdom he passed on to his grandchildren.  The village house structures and the poles were carved from cedar trees.  Most of these are no longer visible as they became the nurse logs for spruce trees.  It takes some imagination to bring the village remains back to life but historical photographs of the buildings, the monuments and the people help.

From Skedans, we motored to Rockfish Harbour on the south side of Louise Island and anchored there for the night.

Monday, August 7th, Rockfish Harbour to Echo Harbour via Dana Passage and Tanu:  This morning we traveled through Dana Passage, between Talunkwan and Moresby Islands.  A fog bank drifted in front of us but lifted as we came through the east end of the passage. 

Fog in Dana Passage

Landslide, Dana Passage
We made our way to Tanu (T’aanuu Llnagaay – Eelgrass Town), the Haida Heritage Site on the eastern shore of Tanu Island.  Because the swell in Klue Passage, between Tanu and Kunga Islands, made for an uncomfortable anchorage near the village site, we decided to anchor south of Kunga Island and take the dinghy across.  Walter, the Haida Watchman at Tanu, met us at the beach and gave us a tour of the old village.  There are no poles here, only old long houses and village houses.
Remains of a long house, Tanu
Walter liked to fish, so he shared some of his fishing secrets with Dave and Al.  From Tanu, we headed towards Echo Harbour via Richardson Passage and Darwin Sound.  We drifted in Darwin Sound to fish for halibut but caught dogfish and a few small rockfish so we gave up after an hour.  We dropped off the prawn trap outside the entrance to Echo Harbour and the crab trap inside and then anchored near the head.  Echo Harbour is well named and we had a good time shouting and hearing our echoes bounce off the granite walls. We had happy hour and supper up on monkey island and then called it a day.

Tuesday, August 8th, Echo Harbour to Murchison Island via Hotspring Island:  It was low tide when we woke up this morning.  Two raccoons were working their way along the rocky shores looking for crabs.  One found one and started to eat it and next thing we knew a bald eagle swooped in close to try and steal the crab.  The raccoon hissed at the eagle and continued to eat.  This happened several more times before the eagle finally gave up and sat on a rock while the raccoon munched on his crab.  We launched the dinghy and went up the inner cove until the water got too shallow.  We walked along the tidal flats to explore the waterfall near the head of the cove and to look for the abandoned homestead near the creek.  We didn’t see any bears but saw lots of bear sign. 

Patti, Al and B wading up the tidal flats, Echo Harbour

Al, Patti and B wading back down the tidal flats, Echo Harbour
The tide is coming in and the water is deeper.

We heaved anchor at 10:00 and picked up the crab trap which had one large crab in it.  We went to pick up our prawn trap but couldn’t find it.  We searched the area for about 30 minutes with Al dragging a fishing line through the water hoping to snag it.  We never did find it; either the line got tangled and dragged the buoy under or someone went over the top of it and dragged it away.  We headed to Windy Bay, the Haida Heritage Site on the east side of Lyell Island.  The swells outside the anchorage site were rolling in and there was a large sailboat on the mooring buoy so we decided to pass by and save it for another day.  We motored to Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay – hot water island) and anchored on the west side.  A group had just gone ashore so we hung out on the boat until the watchmen radioed to let us know it was our turn.  In October 2012, a 7.7 magnitude earthquake shook Haida Gwaii.  One of the consequences was that the hot water had stopped flowing into the pools on Hotspring Island.  In 2016, the hot water returned, closer to the beach than the original pools.  New pools have been constructed along with a changing house and a shower room.  The watchmen let us know that one of the old cliffside pools was about ¾ full so we walked up the path and started our soak there. 

Al, Dave and Patti in the cliffside pool, Hotspring Island.
Next, down to large new pool which is much hotter than the cliffside pool and, finally, into the smaller pool that is filled by the run off of the large new pool. 

Dave, Patti and Al in the new, large beachside pool, Hotspring Island
As we were leaving a local fisherman asked if we wanted to trade some beer for some fresh halibut.  We agreed and they brought their fishing boat alongside to make the swap.  We moved over to the cove on the north side of Murchison Island to anchor up for the night.  This was the first anchorage with other boats in it when we arrived.  Al and Patti barbecued the halibut and made a huge salad while Dave boiled the crab.  Delicious!

Wednesday, August 9th, Murchison Island to Island Bay via Windy Bay:  The seas were settled and the winds were light this morning so we left Murchison Island and headed up to Windy Bay (Hik’yah GawGa – peregrine falcon bay).  Windy Bay was one of the sites where the Haida protested logging on Lyell Island in 1985.  These protests “ultimately led to the protection of the area and the creation of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.”  It was low tide when we picked up the mooring buoy.  We took the dinghy as far as we could and walked the rest of the way up the tidal flats to the heritage site.  The main attractions here are the Legacy Pole that was raised in August 2013 and a trail through the woods that leads to a giant Sitka spruce estimated to be more than 900 years old. 


Legacy Pole, Windy Bay


Longhouse "Looking Around and Blinking House", Windy Bay, built to
house people during the logging blockade.

900+ year old spruce tree, Windy Bay
It was crew change day for the Haida watchmen so we helped Shawn carry their household goods down to his skiff before our walk in the woods. 

Patti and I baked blueberry crumble on the way from Windy Bay to Island Bay, where we dropped anchor at 15:00.  Several groups of kayakers were in the area and we chatted with one group as they paddled from the head of Island Bay back to their campsite on Burnaby Island.  We launched the dinghy and went to check out Dolomite (Burnaby) Narrows. The narrows is shallow with a zee turn in the middle, very poorly chartered and is not recommended for boats with greater than 7 feet draft.  We wanted to check it out in the dinghy before deciding if we would go through with the big boat.  It was high water when we went through; we could see the channel, the shoal areas and the range markers along with the tide rips at the south end.  Back at the boat, we checked tide times and found that high water in the narrows on Thursday wasn’t until ~16:00.  We also checked the weather forecast to see if it looked good for cruising up the west coast of Moresby Island.  The weather forecast was in our favor and we decided that rather than sit around and wait for high tide tomorrow afternoon, we would leave the anchorage early and go the long way around Burnaby Island.

Clouds rolling over the tops of the mountains, Island Bay

Early morning departure from Island Bay
Thursday, August 10th, Island Bay to Etches Point Cove, Louscoone Inlet, via Rose Harbour and SGaang Gwaii:  We left Island Bay in the morning, cruised around Burnaby Island and into the Houston Stewart Channel between Moresby and Kunghit Islands.  We dropped anchor in Rose Harbour, an abandoned whaling station and the only privately owned property within the Gwaii Haanas Park.  We radioed ashore hoping to reach someone for a tour of the old whaling facilities but got no response.  We had our lunch while chatting with some kayakers, then heaved anchor and headed to SGang Gwaii (wailing island).  SGang Gwaii is a Haida Watchmen Site and is also a Unesco World Heritage Site.  The village is located on the east side of the island.  We anchored in Gray’s Cove, just south of the village.  We didn’t get a bite on the anchor so Dave stayed aboard while Al, Patti and I went ashore in the dinghy. 

Al, Patti and B taking the dinghy to shore, Sgang Gwaii.
The Haida watchmen met us at the beach and guided us along the path to the long house/watchmen cabin where we joined a small group who had flown in on a float plane from Queen Charlotte.  The village site includes the remains of long houses, house pits along with standing and fallen memorial, frontal and mortuary poles.  There is a beautiful lagoon in front of the village site where canoes used to be stored.   As per the guide book it “represents one of the best examples in the world of a traditional Northwest Coast First Nations village site.” 

Sgang Gwaii Village Site


Mortuary Pole, Sgang Gwaii
After our tour, we cruised north into Louscoone Inlet.  Towards the north end of the inlet, Parks Canada maintains a large buoy with a freshwater hose attached.  We pulled up to the buoy and filled our water tank then moved back down the inlet and anchored in Etches Point Cove between two small islands.

Al throwing out the crab trap, Etches Point Cove


Patti and Al filling our fresh water tank, Louscoone Inlet.
As the tank got full it would build up pressure and spout.
Friday, August 11th, Etches Point Cove to Yakulanas Bay, Gowgaia Bay:  We heaved anchor at 6:30 and picked up our crab trap on the way out of the anchorage.  No crabs, but we did catch a large sea urchin. 

Sunrise, Etches Point Cove

The wind and seas were reasonable to head north up the west coast of Moresby Island.  We entered Gowgaia Bay about 11:30 and stopped just inside the entrance to drift fish for halibut and rockfish.  Everybody caught something and we kept three nice red rockfish and one large lingcod. 

Patti with a red rockfish, Gowgaia Bay.
We cruised to Yakulanas Bay, on the south side of Gowgaia Bay, about 3 nm from the entrance, and dropped anchor.  Dave and Al set up the fish cutting table and Al fileted our fish. 

Al and Dave filleting the ling cod.
We vacuum packed what we weren’t going to cook for supper and saved the rest for seafood pie – fish cut into chunks and then baked with crushed Ritz cracker topping mixed with butter, lemon juice and white wine.  We spent the afternoon unlaxing and reading, then baked the pie for supper – Magnificent!

Saturday, August 12th, Yakulanas Bay to Botany Inlet, Tasu Sound:  This morning we heaved anchor early.  The winds were supposed to get stronger as the day progressed and we wanted to get inside Tasu Sound before they got too strong.  As we exited Gowgaia Bay, it was obvious that the winds had changed earlier than forecast and they blew from the south 20 – 30 knots for most of our voyage.  The seas were 1 – 2 meters coming from the southwest.  We were taking the waves and swell on the port quarter and did some rolling, up to 20o at one point.  Needless to say, the voyage was a little uncomfortable and there were a few things rolling around that we hadn’t secured.  But, we got a push from the wind and made good time.  Dave and Al saw a whale breach outside the entrance of Tasu Sound just before we turned in.  Once inside, the waters were calm.  We stopped to do some fishing and caught a few small rockfish but no keepers.  We worked our way east to Botany Inlet on the south side of Tasu Sound and anchored just off the mud flats at the head of the inlet.  Al spotted a black bear as we were eating lunch.  It was raining so we spent the afternoon doing boat chores and projects, baking cookies, reading and unlaxing.

Stormy skies, Tasu Sound

South shore, Botany Inlet
Sunday, August 13th, Botany Inlet:  About midnight, the wind picked up with gusts over 50 knots coming down the granite cliffs into the head of the inlet.  These winds, called Williwaws, or Katabatic winds, are downslope winds that occur at night caused by falling cool air.  Dave got up to do anchor watch and to make sure we weren’t dragging.  About 2:00, he woke us all up to tell us we were dragging towards the shallow area and needed to move.  We heaved anchor, moved about 120 yards into deeper water and reset.  Dave and Al stayed up for another hour to make sure all was well.  The wind finally quit blowing about 5:00 and we all got some sleep. 

The spikes on our wind speed chart are up near 50 knots


The chart plotter shows us moving closer to the shoreline.
The depth sounder show 2.8 feet under the keel and the tide is falling.
Dave took these pictures just before waking us up to move and re-anchor.
When we got up we noticed that our re-anchor spot was very near where we had dropped off the crab trap the night before; we were able to reach it with the boat hook and bring it on board.  Only two small crabs, no keepers.  Patti cooked us a gourmet Sunday brunch.  It was still raining and the weather outside the sound was too rough to go anywhere, so we spent the morning hanging around the boat.  The rain finally quit mid-afternoon.  We launched the dinghy and went ashore to walk along the grassy flats and into the woods.  We saw two sandhill cranes and some deer feeding.  No bears but lots of bear sign. 

Al and Dave searching for bear, Botany Inlet

Sandhill Crane, Botany Inlet


We cruised around the inlet, admiring all of the waterfalls. On our return to the boat, Al spotted a bear eating grass near the creek where we walked earlier, so we eased along for a better look and some pictures.


Black bear eating grass, Botany Inlet
Dave and Al then dropped Patti and me off at the boat and did some trolling for salmon but no luck. 

Al and Dave trolling for salmon in the dinghy, Botany Inlet
We cooked pizzas for supper.  Al spotted two bears feeding along the shoreline so we watched them for a while, did some reading and called it a day.

Seabiscuit at anchor, Botany Inlet
Monday, August 14th, Botany Inlet to Sandspit:  The weather looked good this morning for our journey and we heaved anchor about 8:00.  We saw a bear wandering the shoreline as we exited the inlet and stopped to watch him for a while. 

Bear walking the shoreline, Botany Inlet

The water was like glass all the way to the Tasu Sound entrance.  There was lots of swell outside, but no breaking waves and very little wind.  On our way north, we spotted several whales spouting in the distance, saw two puffins fly across the bow and saw a small pod of killer whales.  We turned into Skidegate Channel about 13:30 where lots of small fishing boats were fishing just inside the swells on the south side of the channel.  Skidegate Channel, including East and West Narrows, separates Moresby and Grahams Islands.  East Narrows is the central portion of the channel.  It is described as narrow and winding with strong tidal currents and less than 2 feet of water in some places at low tide.  West Narrows is shallow, but deeper and less winding than East Narrows with weaker tidal streams.  Along with the shallows, the currents and the twists and turns, the other tricky part of transiting the narrows is that there is a huge tide height difference between the east and west portions.  At the time we arrived at West Narrows, the tide near Queen Charlotte, east of the East Narrows, was near 20 feet.  On the west side of West Narrows, in Armentieres Channel, the tide was 13 feet.  We went through the West Narrows at 15:00 with adequate depth but with 1.5 to 2.0 knots of current pushing us through.
Channel marker getting pushed by the current, Skidegate Channel

We decided to wait another hour to catch slack water in the East Narrows so we anchored and did some fishing in Trounce Inlet.  About 16:15, we heaved anchor, announced our intentions to transit the narrows on the VHF and proceeded through.  The fishing boats from the west were starting to make their way east through the narrows so they gave us a good visual of the twists and turns involved.  The channel is well marked and we made it through with no issues. 

East Narrows channel markers, Skidegate Channel
We arrived at Sandspit Marina about 19:00, tied up to the long dock near the breakwater and walked to Dick’s Wok In for Al and Patti’s final evening in Haida Gwaii.

Tuesday, August 15th, Sandspit:  Packing bags, cleaning, a few boat chores, checking e-mails, internet and weather filled our time Tuesday morning.  We had a light lunch.  Chad, from Sandspit Adventures, showed up at the boat at 14:00 to give Al and Patti a ride to the airport.  Dave and I rode along, said our goodbyes, and then walked to the grocery store for a few provisions before returning to the boat.  We did a few boat chores, called home, checked e-mail, internet and weather, had supper and called it a day.  The weather looked good for crossing Hecate Strait in the morning.

Wednesday, August 16th, Sandspit to Spicer Islands:  We left Sandspit Marina at 6:45 to cross Hecate Strait.  The weather was good and our journey was uneventful.  We decided to anchor in the Spicer Islands instead of Larsen Harbour which added 45 minutes to our journey.  We were anchored up by 15:30.  We finished some projects and did some planning for our voyage south.  We are planning to moor in the Victoria Inner Harbour again this winter so from here we start heading south. 

Thursday, August 17th, Spicer Islands to Miller Inlet:  We heaved anchor this morning about 8:00 in a light mist.  We turned north up Beaver Passage and got a nice push from the current.  We saw a humpback whale feeding nearby and he breached just after we went past him.  The winds were blowing between 25-30 knots, more than forecast, and as we turned south into Petrel Channel, we were taking the current on the nose.  The winds continued to increase and we started to see steady winds over 40 knots along with driving rain.  It turned out to be the worst cruising / weather day we have seen this season.  As we approached the south side of McCauley Island, where Petrel Channel and Principe Channel meet, we had about 2.0 knots of ebb current with us, winds were gusting over 55 knots from the south and, with the two opposing forces, the chop was short and steep.  We decided to shorten our initial run by 10 nm and go to Patterson Inlet instead of Monckton Inlet.  As we passed Anger Island, the wind was up to 55 knots and the short steep seas were beating us up.  We had only 3 nm to go to reach the entrance to Patterson but decided it wasn’t wise to continue in the existing and apparently increasing conditions.  We slowed down, turned around and quickly studied the cruising guides for somewhere to take shelter.  Miller Inlet, up Ala Passage, was nearby and we decided that was our place.  We made it past Peck Shoal and turned east into the inlet and found instant relief.  Suddenly we were protected from both the wind and the waves and the water in the inlet was calm.  It was like we had entered a whole different world.  We anchored at the head of the basin and breathed a sigh of relief.

We have our wind speed indicator chart maximum set at 50 knots.  You can see where the winds
exceeded this and then decreased dramatically as we were took shelter in Miller Inlet.

One beat-up crew member waiting to drop anchor, Miller Inlet.

Friday, August 18th, Miller Inlet to Weinberg Inlet, Dunn Passage:  What a difference a day makes.  We left Miller Inlet at 8:00 and were greeted by calm, flat seas in the Principe Channel.  We cruised south to Estevan Sound and turned into Dunn Passage on Campania Island.  We anchored in Weinberg Inlet amongst “a maze of islets and lagoons”.  It rained most of the day so we did boat chores and projects and watched two red-throated loons swim nearby.

Calm water, Miller Inlet
Saturday, August 19th, Weinberg Inlet to Bay of Plenty, Laredo Inlet:  Early departure this morning for our cruise down Laredo Channel to Laredo Inlet.  We are starting to see more boats as we get further south but it is still not crowded.  Along the way we picked up some kelp on the starboard stabilizer fin.  We knew because our speed dropped 0.3 knots just after going by a floating kelp patch.  We stopped and freed the kelp and then continued on our way.  We turned north into Laredo Inlet and then west into Bay of Plenty about 10 miles up the inlet.  We dropped off the crab trap and anchored in the middle of the bay.  We are on the coast of Princess Royal Island which has a large concentration of Kermode bears – “a cream-colored black bear known in native lore as the Spirit Bear.”  We are monitoring the grassy banks near the creek and the tidal flats hoping to get a glimpse of one.  It rained most of the day so we stayed on board and unlaxed.

Departing Weinberg Inlet
Sunday, August 20th, Bay of Plenty:  The rain continues.  We decided to stay in the Bay of Plenty for another day to give ourselves more chances to see a Kermode Bear.  We stayed aboard doing chores, reading, checking weather and planning our cruise south.

Monday, August 21st, Bay of Plenty to Alexander Inlet:  Our voyage today took us south down Laredo Inlet and through Thistle Passage, east through Meyers Passage, north up Tolmie Channel and then west into Alexander Inlet.  As the crow flies we are only 13 nm  from our anchorage in Bay of Plenty but it was a 31 nm journey down, across, up and around by boat.  We arrived early afternoon and anchored at the head of the inlet.  The rain has finally stopped and we are enjoying a calm afternoon watching the shoreline for bears.

Departing Alexander Inlet
Tuesday, August 22nd, Alexander Inlet to Shearwater:  No bears sighted.  We left the anchorage this morning at 7:15 and cruised through a light mist out of the inlet.  The water was like glass.  The fog thickened and we turned on the radar.  Four fishing boats followed us down Finlayson Channel and eventually passed us.  We arrived in Shearwater mid-afternoon, did some laundry, and caught up on e-mails and internet.

Wednesday, August 23rd, Shearwater:  We stayed in Shearwater today to do some provisioning and to take advantage of the phone and internet access.

Until next time… 
Note:  The map shows Prince Rupert as "19".  This is where we ended the last blog.  Larsen Harbour "1" is where this blog starts.




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